A passion for pumpkin pie intersects with a love of gardening
A pumpkin lover starts a small garden to grow her favorite vegetable and provide the makings of tasty fall pies.
For pumpkin lovers, there may be nothing better than a simple slice of a great pie. That rich, velvety custard filling baked atop a flaky, golden crust, a great pumpkin pie is a thing of sheer beauty, a perfect way to show off the very best the squash has to offer.Skip to next paragraph
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Then, of course, there are the leaden hockey pucks that pass for pies at way too many a holiday gathering. Thick, dense filling -- either cloyingly sweet and spiced to the hilt, or dismally bland -- baked atop a crust that's about as easy to gnaw as a Frisbee and just as flavorless.
They're enough to make any pumpkin lover cry.
I've been a fan of the pumpkin for as long as I can remember. For me, growing up in southern California, seasons weren't marked so much by changes in the weather as by events.
To my young mind, "fall" didn't officially start until the family packed into the station wagon to make the annual trip to the local pumpkin patch. Once there, it seemingly took forever for my siblings and me to scamper about, hunting for the perfect pumpkins to carve.
The leftover seeds were probably the first thing I ever cooked by myself. One year, I carefully picked and cleaned the seeds from the carving leftovers and toasted them on the stove top with a little butter and seasoning, amazed that they could actually be transformed into something edible and tasty.
That experience sparked an interest in cooking. Soon I was hanging out in the kitchen, studying my mother's every move as she, an amazing home baker, would prepare her famous pumpkin pies for the holidays.
When I finally began cooking professionally, I found myself using pumpkin everywhere I could, adding the squash to breads, cakes, and soups, and using the seeds to lend crunch to stuffings and salads.
Inevitably, my passion for cooking intersected with my love of gardening, and a few years ago I started a small vegetable garden in my backyard. The first year, I planted -- or rather, overplanted -- four kinds of pumpkins.
They were all standard varieties: a couple jack-o'-lantern types, a Sugar Pie, and a cute miniature. The garden was orderly and manageable until the summer heat hit and those pumpkin vines started to grow literally a foot a day.
Before long, the entire garden was consumed by vines. Secretly, I didn't mind -- pumpkins were growing everywhere! I'd excavate the garden every few days, counting squash and checking to make sure everything was happy.
Come fall, I harvested my own pumpkin patch. I'd actually grown several rather decent-looking pumpkins. Most I reserved for holiday decoration; the rest I set aside in the kitchen, eager to test in recipes.
But that first batch of pumpkins turned out to be a disaster. The Sugar Pies were plain, almost flavorless. The jack-o'-lanterns were overly starchy and fibrous.
The next year, I decided to try heirlooms. I pored through seed catalogs like others pore through the latest fashion magazines. There were so many to choose from! I finally decided on two: Galeuse d'Eysines and Long Island Cheese squash.
The results were a bit better. Visually striking -- soft peach skin covered with peanutlike warts -- the Galeuse d'Eysines had a nice mellow flavor and lent itself well to sweet and savory dishes. The Long Island Cheese was beautiful, but fibrous with hollow flavor.
This year, I thought I'd take a break from pumpkins and winter squash, and tried my hand at growing summer squash. But with fall here, all I can think about are pumpkins. And I wanted to sample what I could find before I settled on seeds for next year.
It's amazing how many squash are readily available at farmers markets -- and even grocery stores -- these days. It seems that just a few years ago, you could find a couple of pumpkins, and maybe a half-dozen other squash and that was about it.