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WWOOFing in Normandy

Tending an organic farm is exhausting and exhilarating.

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We spent most of our time preparing the garden for winter – weeding, mulching, potting plants in the greenhouse. I quickly grew sore from the work. Then the cute strawberry stitching started to chafe the skin on my knuckles.

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But I’ve never slept as well at the end of a day – or felt as useful – in front of the computer. Physical exhaustion, it turns out, is very calming.

I often wondered what exactly Antje and I were doing there, why a hundred other WWOOFers had come through June and David’s farm. WWOOFing isn’t quite like having a job; it’s also not really like being on vacation.

June and David had seen all kinds: There was the woman from New Zealand who’d been WWOOFing for seven years straight, the English woman who’d only do housework if she could blast ABBA on the stereo, the Canadian couple fleeing from their families.

But what did they have in common that made mulching for strangers in another country seem like a great idea?

After all our time together in the garden, and our free afternoons spent on bike rides to the coast, I had the sense that Antje and I were both there biding time, trying to figure out what to do next in the real world.

Spending long, quiet mornings weeding a strawberry patch, if nothing else, is good for thinking.

“Well, I guess that’s not a bad reason,” June said, when I told her my theory of why many people came.

When I asked Antje why she had come, she thought for a few moments and told me in French that she wanted to “faire quelque chose extraordinaire,” for a little while.

She wanted to do something, literally, out of the ordinary, but also extraordinary in the more ambitious sense. She once told me she thought the best part of being in Normandy was that she could bike alone through the countryside singing songs from Chicago as loud as she wanted.

“I’ve got it!” I yelled one afternoon as we were pushing our bikes back up the gravel driveway of a cider orchard near the farm. A brainstorm, my new calling!

“I want to be a sweet-potato-butter taster!”

We stumbled over our bikes, laughing.

“I want to be a mattress tester!” Antje sang. “Specializing in water beds!”

A month later, she passed through Paris on her way back to Berlin where she really had to decide what to do next. I was back at my apartment, studying French and trying to devise other adventures.

“Are you ready to go home?” I asked her, referring to the sense that we had to figure things out before we could.

“It’s not that I want to be a gardener now, or a farmer,” she said. But she had planted these spinach seeds, and every day she had checked to see if they had grown into something bigger. She’d never experienced that simple satisfaction in carpentry.

It was, we decided, what we both now had to find off the farm.