Butternut and sage lasagna
Lasagna with a subtle hint of almond and amaretto.
Ever since I was a student in England, all those years ago, I have made an annual pilgrimage to London. On one such trip, when I was young and still interested in trying to keep up with the latest, some friends and I went to a very trendy Italian restaurant, in a lower ground floor space with funky lighting and soigne staff. Our decidedly un-trendy band managed to settle ourselves on the knee-high white leather banquettes and red leather cubes, placed around a low acrylic table. This is not easy in high heels and a skirt, I can tell you. We clung to our uber-hip beverages and chose dinner from a surprisingly simple menu for such a place.Skip to next paragraph
The Runaway Spoon
Perre Magness has studied food and cooking around the world, mostly by eating, but also through serious study. Coursework at Le Cordon Bleu London and intensive courses in Morocco, Thailand and France has broadened her own culinary skill and palate. The kitchen of choice is at home, cooking like most people, experimenting with unique but practical ideas.
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I ordered tortelloni with pumpkin and amaretti, because it was new to me, and I do love pumpkin. The soft pasta stuffed with amazingly flavorful filling, just dancing in a little pool of sage-infused brown butter was spectacular. I managed to eat every bite from the plate precariously balanced on my knee, and as I am wont to do, asked the server all the details of the dish. She even showed me some of the amaretti biscuits used in the filling, which they also serve with coffee. I knew I had to try and recreate this dish, so I took notes – totally destroying any chance my friends and I had of keeping up a hipster pretense. Well, that and me loudly sliding off the leather cube into a decidedly unlady-like heap.
So back at home I went to work. I discovered that butternut squash really produces the right texture and subtlety of this dish, plus I can find it more consistently than the right type of roasting pumpkin, and it’s easier to work with. I started by making this dish as tortellini, using wonton skins, or ravioli with fresh pasta sheets, served always with sage brown butter. And I must tell you, the dinner guests I served it to were mightily impressed, both with the flavor and with the effort of making all those little pasta packages. But it is a little fiddly, and does take the kind of last minute effort I try to avoid when I have a house full of guests. And then it occurred to me to try the filling as a lasagna, and I really think I improved on the original. It’s easier, can be made ahead and you actually get to enjoy more of the lovely filling.
Do not shy away from using the amaretti cookies. I promise, your lasagna will taste nothing like cookies, but have a great texture and a subtle hint of almond and amaretto and spice that will amaze – and leave your guests wondering what your secret is. I find the cookies at upscale markets, in the Italian section of well-stocked groceries, or my local Italian pasta maker. You are likely to have some left over from the package. Serve them with coffee, crumbled over ice cream, or in the topping of a fruit crumble.
Butternut and Sage Lasagna
This is truly my fall favorite. No-cook or oven ready lasagna sheets are readily available at the grocery. My local Italian pasta shop sells fresh sheets, which are great for this.
1 butternut squash, about 3-1/2 pounds
1 large bunch fresh sage
1/2 of a 7 ounce tub mascarpone
5 ounces amaretti cookies
Salt and pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter plus 2 tablespoons
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
9-ounce package oven-ready lasagne sheets
8 ounces fontina cheese, grated
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Place the whole squash on a piece of foil or sheet pan, to catch any drips, in the oven. Roast for about 2 hours until soft when you squeeze it (wearing oven mitts obviously).