Hurt by war in Iraq, a Baghdad museum reemerges
A new exhibit opened this month at the Iraqi Museum, providing one more sign that the worst horrors of the war in Iraq are receding and the country is settling into a new normal.
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In 2003, senior Iraqi antiquities official Donny George called the looting "the crime of the century because it affects the heritage of all mankind."Skip to next paragraph
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Since then, Iraqi officials estimate that a total of 38,000 items have been returned – the majority of them taken from Iraqi dig sites both before and after the US invasion. Some 700 were returned from Syria in 2008; another 540 were recovered in the US and brought back last year.
A further 632 artifacts that had been shipped to the prime minister's office from the US had "gone missing" for most of a year but were eventually found intact in basement offices.
The first problem was the looting. "Whatever was lost, it can't be replaced," says Shaimaa. "Even if it were something small, it will be valuable for us."
The second problem was the lack of security, especially for a government facility just one block away from Haifa Street, which was a notorious area controlled by Al Qaeda in Iraq and marked by violence. "We did not stop working," says Shaimaa, though they did have to work at other ministry facilities "when terrorists were everywhere."
The museum first reopened to the public with great fanfare in February 2009. Eight of its 23 halls remained opened until mid-2010, when it closed again for a complete renovation after money was found for the job.
The scheduled reopening this month will now be delayed at least two months, as work is completed to fit all the halls with new lighting and glass showcases. Until then, the new exhibit will be open to official visits and select students.
But the delayed reopening does not dim the progress for the museum's deputy director, Mohsen Hassan Ali, who says "most of the money" to support the work – about $9 million – has come from the US government.
"Everything" will be put on show, says Mr. Ali, adding that with the "efforts of the good Iraqi people, we have returned much of what was lost, and – God willing – the rest will return."
Just days after U.S. troops pulled down the statue of Saddam Hussein in 2003, Ali – an employee for more than three decades at that point – entered the museum to find it infested with looters. A photograph that appeared in newspapers the next day showed him kicking them out.
"It was a tragic situation," recalls Ali, and the violence took its toll. "The streets were not safe; the neighborhood was not safe. Coming here was very, very difficult."
He lives far away, but when vehicles were blocked by checkpoints or violence, he says, he walked.
Foreign support has helped. Besides the US cash and French sponsorship, the Italians renovated the main hall where the cuneiform exhibit resides.
But what excites Ali more is the fact that in recent years, not only have many stolen artifacts been returned, from inside and outside Iraq, but also that Iraqi archaeologists have been at work "adding to this collection, with new artifacts taken out of the ground."
"Tomorrow will be better, I am sure," says Shaimaa, the museum archaeologist. "The new generation, God willing, will be active and be better."
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