Skip to: Content
Skip to: Site Navigation
Skip to: Search

  • Advertisements

Global News Blog

A breakfast to warm winter in Kashmir

A lamb dish called Harissa is a winter delicacy in Kashmir, but you have to wake up early to find it.

By Rebecca Byerly, Contributor / January 31, 2012

Manzoor Ahmed serves harissa on a cold morning.

Bridgette Auger

Enlarge

Srinagar, Kashmir

• A local, slice-of-life story from a Monitor correspondent.

Skip to next paragraph

Recent posts

As the car winds through the old city, I worry that I’ll miss breakfast. Harissa, Kashmir’s winter delicacy, is for early risers. The puréed lamb with rice and spices is only served in a few areas of the city and usually only until 7 a.m. Thankfully, Kaka’s Café and House of Breakfast is still open.

RELATED Kashmir 101: Decoding Kashmir's conflict

Manzoor Ahmed, the owner, says his family has been running the tiny restaurant for more than 600 years. Now considered a master, Mr. Ahmed has spent three decades catering to his early-morning customers. Sitting on a stone platform, he reaches chest deep into a huge clay pot in the floor where the lamb has been cooking for hours. His grease-stained hand scoops out a steaming helping of harissa with a silver ladle.

It doesn’t look appetizing, but the aroma is enticing and the taste amazing. Locals say it’s perfect for frigid winter mornings. I find it to be true, too.

 Get daily or weekly updates from CSMonitor.com delivered to your inbox. Sign up today.

RELATED Kashmir 101: Decoding Kashmir's conflict

E-mail Permissions

Read Comments

View reader comments | Comment on this story

Photos of the day

05.27.12 »

What happens when ordinary people decide to pay it forward? Extraordinary change. See how individuals are making a difference...

Mae Azango has gone undercover to report on female circumcision, a rite of the Sande society in Liberia that is performed on young girls.

Mae Azango exposed a secret ritual in Liberia, putting her life in danger

When journalist Mae Azango wrote about a secret women's circumcision ritual in Liberia, she received death threats.

Become a fan! Follow us! YouTube Link up with us! See our feeds!