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Trendy threads from waste

Pratibha Syntex could lead in the next textile wave: low-waste, recycled cotton.

By Michael BenanavContributor / February 17, 2011

A man works at a sewing machine in the Pratibha Syntex garment factory.

Michael Benanav

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If you want to be "green," you may have to change your clothes. And your sheets.

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The environmental impact of the global textile industry is hard to overstate. One-third of the water used worldwide is spent fashioning fabrics. For every ton of cloth produced, 200 tons of water is polluted with chemicals and heavy metals. An estimated 1 trillion kilowatt-hours of electricity powers the factories that card and comb, spin and weave, and cut and stitch materials into everything from T-shirts to towels, leaving behind mountains of solid waste and a massive carbon footprint.

"Where the industry is today is not really sustainable for the long term," says Shreyaskar Chaudhary, chief executive of Pratibha Syntex, a textile manufacturer based outside Indore, India. The company, which specializes in ready-to-wear clothing, makes garments for Nike, Hanes, Wal-Mart, and Ralph Lauren.

With something of an "if you build it, they will come" attitude, Mr. Chaudhary has steered Pratibha toward the leading edge of eco-friendly textile production.

Under his direction, Pratibha began making clothes with organic cotton in 1999. Initially, the company couldn't find enough organic farms growing cotton in central India to supply its factories.

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To meet production demands, Chaudhary's team had to convince conventional cotton farmers to change their growing methods. Pratibha provided seeds, cultivation instruction, and a guarantee of fair-trade prices for their crops. Today, Pratibha has a network of 28,000 organic cotton growers across the central states of Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, and Orissa.

Within the factories themselves, Pratibha has invested some $100 million in sustainable technologies over the past three years.

Thanks to innovative salt-free, low-impact dyes used on all material they produce, 92 percent of their manufacturing waste water can be reclaimed and reused.

Pratibha meets 90 percent of its water needs by using water recycling and rainwater harvesting technologies.

Still, Chaudhary estimates that, at this point, only a quarter of the garments Pratibha makes qualify as "sustainable" and he wants to improve upon that.

Why the urgency? Growing natural fibers is a huge drain on resources. Cotton fields soak up 25 percent of all insecticides sprayed on the planet and require some 2,600 gallons of water for every pound of white fluff grown. The Aral Sea, once the world's fourth-largest lake, is now 15 percent of its original size – a victim of large-scale cotton irrigation projects. But synthetic material isn't any better, since its production is toxic and its fibers take decades to biodegrade.

To alleviate this heavy strain, Chaudhary brought in giant machines capable of recycling solid textile waste, turning the discarded material into usable fabrics.

The solid waste typically comes in two forms: cotton lint lost along the way during various production processes (soft waste) and scrap material left over after garments are finished (hard waste).

Soft waste is collected; the cotton fibers are opened, cleaned, and baled before heading for the production line. Hard waste must be gathered, color-stripped, shredded, and crushed so intensely that it's broken down to resemble raw fiber.

Since recycled fibers are shorter than virgin fibers, they produce fabric that is slightly heavier and coarser. As a result, they're often blended with virgin fibers for improved texture and integrity, yielding material with unique qualities.

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