World
from the August 04, 2004 edition

Reporters on the Job

Senior Privileges: The Monitor's Dan Murphy and photographer Kael Alford spent a night at a low-level Mahdi Army leader's house while reporting Wednesday's story ( see story) and were treated to typically gracious Arab hospitality, with a spread of chicken and rice, bread in gravy, fresh figs, dates, and salads laid out on a mat in the furnitureless front room that served as the home's public area.

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But in this religiously conservative household Dan didn't meet his host's wife, or any of the other women, with one exception: His host's nearly 80-year-old mother, her face adorned with green tribal tattoos. "At her age, a lot of the conservative rules don't seem to apply. She shook my hand firmly, interjected when she wanted to make a point, and even lit up a cigarette, usually a strict no-no for women among religious Shiites here," says Dan. "She had a lot to say but, unfortunately, we didn't have a translator with us at that point."

Hollowed-out Hamlets: Correspondent Mark Rice-Oxley grew up in a bucolic English village and is determined one day to return to his roots. But reporting his latest Monitor story ( see story) he became aware of how forlorn and deprived parts of England's green and pleasant land have become. "Poets have waxed lyrical about rural Britain for centuries - but they didn't have to wait half a day for a bus to take them to the nearest hostelry," he says. Sure, the English hinterland remains as idyllic as ever, and city-dwellers have long sought the prestige and serenity of a place in the country. But logistically it's become a tough place to get by.

"I was always struck while traveling in Eastern Europe in the 1990s by how barren the villages were. 'Where do people get their basic provisions?' I thought. It's entirely possible to ask the same question while passing through some parts of rural England today."

Amelia Newcomb
Deputy world editor

Cultural snapshot

(Photograph)
FLUSHED WITH HISTORY: In a bid to improve hygiene, Beijing is spending $12 million annually to upgrade toilets like this one in the city's alleyways. The goal: 4,700 public toilets, just in time for the 2008 Olympics.
GREG BAKER/AP

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