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Forty-eight hours in Vancouver

Is it possible to see all the sights in the largest city in British Columbia in just two days? No, but you can certainly have a great time trying.



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By Judy Lowe, Staff writer of The Christian Science Monitor / June 26, 2002

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

It isn't possible to see everything in a large cosmopolitan city like Vancouver in a mere two days. I knew that. But I was in town for a business meeting, and that's how much free time I had.

So I bought a map and a couple of guidebooks, laced on my speediest running shoes, and set about seeing just how much was doable in 48 hours.

Actually, this is a fairly common scenario for visitors to the largest city in British Columbia. Some tourists are here for a day or so at the beginning or end of an Alaska cruise. Others may be attending a convention. Tourists already in Seattle often decide to cross the border to sample Vancouver's ambience and activities.

Each visitor's list of "must-sees" will be different, but I decided on an eclectic itinerary that was part arts, part parks and gardens, part seeing the usual tourist sights. (Surely, a visit to Vancouver wouldn't be complete without hopping on the driverless, magnetically propelled SkyTrain.)

Then I mixed in a little relaxation and a large dose of ogling the scenery. After all, British Columbia is justly famous for its panoramic landscape.

One important thing I've learned about touring big cities in a short time: Choose your hotel carefully. You'll save a great deal of time if you're in the middle of things – or, at least, someplace within easy reach of everywhere you want to go.

I chose the Listel Vancouver on fashion-conscious Robson Street. A small hotel with original art (for sale) in many of the rooms, it was a comfortable place for a woman staying alone.

It was also a quick early-morning walk from the waterfront and a pleasant stroll from several theaters and the Vancouver Art Gallery. This museum is well worth visiting to discover the work of Emily Carr, a native of Vancouver Island whose powerful works depict native life in the early 1900s. Of special interest if you have little ones along is the children's gallery.

Count yourself fortunate if you're at the museum when the hungries strike. Its Gallery Cafe is just as popular with Vancouverites as with those visiting the city.

Stanley Park, a Vancouver institution, is a brisk walk (or short bus ride) from the Vancouver Art Gallery.

It's a thousand acres that incorporates at least a little of everyone's conception of what a large park should be – old-growth forest, a formal rose garden, masses of flower beds, plenty of squirrels, a meadow, a lake, a playground for the youngsters, picnic areas, rhododendrons, walking trails, cricket matches, and the world's largest red cedar tree.

Stanley Park is also home to ocean beaches, a totem pole park, a hollow tree big enough for cars to drive through, a miniature train for children ... the list goes on and on.

All that may make the park sound as though it's going to be filled with people or that it's too kitschy for real nature lovers. Not true. At certain times and places, you will certainly encounter friendly crowds. But it's easy to find peopleless pathways. And when you're watching the sun set at Second Beach, you'll be so enthralled that you won't know if anyone else is around or not.

Vancouver friends recommend walking, running, skating, or biking the 6-1/2-mile-long Seawall to really appreciate all the park has to offer. It takes you near practically every attraction, but requires more time than I had, especially since I'm prone to wander off pathways.

Instead, I decided to stop in the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Center, which is located in the park. It's consistently rated as one of North America's top aquariums. Especially appealing are the Amazon gallery, which re-creates a tropical environment, and Arctic Canada, where you can listen to the haunting sounds of whales, seals, and walruses.

I walked back to Robson Street for lunch, doing lots of people-watching and window-gazing, since the thoroughfare is known for its fashionistas, trendy boutiques and clothing stores.

Remember Roots, the Canadian clothing company that made such a big splash at the winter Olympics in Salt Lake City earlier this year? It has a popular shop on Robson.

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