A tropical weekend wave of sun and sand

Icicles hung from my car's fender as I drove to the airport one Saturday morning, and the runway had to be de-iced before my plane could land the following Monday evening. But between flights, the only ice I encountered was in the tall glass of lemonade I sipped on a tropical beach.

Sure, I would have liked to linger longer on that beach and sip many more glasses of lemonade. But even a weekend trip to the Bahamas in the middle of winter isn't something to complain about - at least not to wind-chill-weary friends back home.

With only 48 hours in Nassau and the surrounding area, I wanted to experience it all - not only the sand and sea, but also the vibrant music and spicy food; historic and cultural sites; and the lovely, hospitable people. Fortunately, the group I was traveling with had the same agenda.

We got off to a good start. In just under three hours after takeoff, we exited the plane, our exposed ankles quickly warmed by balmy air. The live sounds of a steel drum band playing Jimmy Cliff tunes filled the airport. A customs agent even offered me a stick of chewing gum while stamping my passport.

Bahamian hospitality was in full swing, and winter weather already seemed like a distant memory.

After dropping off our bags at the nearby Radisson Cable Beach Resort, an all-inclusive hotel with ocean-view balconies on every one of its 700 rooms, we set off to see a few sights.

First among them was Atlantis, a $480 million mega-resort, which, since its opening a few years ago, has been the talk of the Bahamas. Its 3 million-gallon saltwater aquarium with more than 100 species of tropical fish is a must-see, but budget travelers or those who typically seek out intimate guesthouses will want to look elsewhere for a place to stay. Rates range from $400 for a single room to $25,000 for an ultra-luxury suite, which Michael Jordan booked one Christmas. And, with 1,200 rooms, five swimming pools, and 12 restaurants, intimacy is not its strong suit.

But there's much more to the island than that. For a local culinary experience, walk right past Dunkin' Donuts, Hooters, and Planet Hollywood, and head to the humble fish shacks under the bridge on Potter's Cay dock, where you can choose from a long line of Bahamian vendors who slice and dice conch salad or fry conch fritters while you wait.

This is where the locals hang out on the weekends - either at tables at the shacks or cruising by them in their cars, windows open and music blaring. Traffic slows to a crawl, but no one seems to mind. Even in bustling Nassau, "island time" rules.

After lunch, venture over to Bay Street, the main road, for at least a picture of, if not a purchase from, the colorful straw market. You can't miss it across the street from the Gucci, Cartier, and Fendi shops, which are popular with cruise-ship passengers, who love the duty-free shopping on the island.

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