James and her family stayed in Italy for the summer before moving to Paris, stopping along the way to visit friends who live in Cigliano, Italy, for an overnight stay. James' teenage son was less than thrilled. "The farmhouse had hooks over the beds to hang drying herbs and sausages," James wrote. "Showing no respect for tradition, Luca freaked out at the 'meat hooks' and begged to be allowed to sleep in the car. We managed to keep from our friends his belief that their beloved house was really a charnel."

By Hernán García Crespo