``Here's a recipe that will remind you of the way your mother used to cook,'' says Irena Chalmers in her ``Good Old Food'' cookbook (Barron's, New York, $19.95). 1 cup short grain rice 1 quart milk 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Heat oven to 325 degrees F. Butter a two-quart, flat-bottomed baking dish.

Combine rice and milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer five minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.

Stir in cup brown sugar, butter, and grated lemon peel. Pour mixture into baking dish and sprinkle with nutmeg and remaining brown sugar. Bake 50 minutes. Serves four.

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