Johnnycake In this part of the United States, johnnycake is just another name for corn dodgers. Ash Cakes For these, mix 2 cups cornmeal and 1 teaspoon salt. Add enough hot water to make a stiff dough. Let stand an hour or more. With hands, shape into cakes about an inch thick. Lay on hot hearth stones near fire until outside crusts up a little; then cover with hot ashes and bake at least a half hour or until well browned. Brush off ashes with a cloth. Split and eat hot with slabs of butter. Corn Dodgers The mixture for dodgers is the same as that used for making ash cake, only thinner. The dodgers are browned in a heavy skillet. Red Eye Gravy After frying country ham in a black iron skillet, Southern cooks make red eye gravy. First, drain off a portion of fat if there is an excess, and add a little water. Bring to a boil and then serve. Some of the old folks add about a tablespoon of strong coffee to the gravy, says Beth Tartan in her book ``North Carolina and Old Salem Cookery'' ($6.95 Tar Par Ltd., PO Box 3, Kernersville, NC 27284). Leather Britches, or Breeches This method of preserving string or green beans is still used by some country people today. The beans are strung with a darning needle and hung to dry. Later, when ready to use, they are soaked, then cooked like fresh beans with salt pork. Sausage and Sweets North Carolina leads the United States in its production of sweet potatoes, and one of the most favored ways to serve them is with sausage.

For each serving, peel a medium-size sweet potato and slice into thirds lengthwise. Shape pork sausage to make 2 flat patties about 1/2 inch thick, the size of the sweet potato. Place 2 patties, sandwich fashion, between the 3 slices of potato. Wrap in foil, seal tightly, and bake in pan in a 350-degree F. oven for 1 hour, turning once. Moravian Slaw In Northern cookbooks you may find this dish listed as coleslaw, but in most Southern books it's called just slaw, unless it's a special kind of slaw such as this one. Moravian slaw is also called Dutch slaw. It is made with cabbage chopped into very fine pieces.

To make dressing, boil together 2 cups sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 2 cups water, a few celery seeds, then cool. Add 2 chopped green peppers, 2 medium onions, 1 tablespoon salt to 3 pounds very finely chopped or grated cabbage. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate 24 hours. Serves 8.

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