Sumptuous array of accessories
New York — SHOPPING for accessories this year will be rather like entering a fabulous bazaar filled with arrays of sumptuous wares. Ropes of pearls, fake jewels the size of robin's eggs, gilded brooches and chains hung with mock antique coins, damask shawls, tapestry handbags, and silk flowers are part of the wealth of choices. Fashion's main themes are represented in all categories. Equestrian accents The proper look of English riding dress, a prime influence on new sportswear, is accented with crest pins and paisley mufflers. The stiff bowler hat and the binoculars bag have been borrowed from the turf-and-field set.
In counterpoint to the season's classics are lavish accessories redolent of an Oriental market. Exotic long necklaces and double-strand bracelets of pearls, gold beads, and synthetic stones, worn singly or in multiples, will dress up simple wool jerseys. At the wrist there are dangling coins and other miscellany, including the jingling charm bracelet, which is making a comeback. Glit-tery crescents and Maltese crosses decorate lapels and hats, the pillbox and the fez being popular shapes. Bangles of bla ck velvet ornamented with filigree are among the novel pieces that recall the Victorian heyday of the British raj. Ornaments from India
Inspirations from India are everywhere, strongest in jewelry and neckwear. Court jewels of the sort that filled the coffers of maharajahs have been copied right and left. The most faithful replicas of the real antiques are those by Sunita Pitamber, princess of Bombay. Bangles and necklaces in gold plate are inset with imitation seed pearls, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds. They will be sold by New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art shop to tie in with the museum's forthcoming Indian art and costume exhibitions.
A bare neck will likely seem undressed this year. Just as layers of necklaces have fashion cachet, so do layers of scarves. Doubling up on neckwear -- silk scarves and challis mufflers or shawls -- is another case of piling on the opulence, and there are all kinds of ways to do it. The people at Echo suggest a neck-tied square with a muffler of compatible pattern, or a long oblong looped around the neck, with matching pocket square, or a tied, patterned scarf with an oversized shawl.
Overscaled patterns will be a dramatic impact this season. Besides giant paisleys and huge tartans, there are the cabbage roses and other big florals -- some based on designs from Persian carpets and others of the softer romantic kind. Flowers in fact (roses, particularly) are arranged on hats, shoes, and handbags, in every guise from silk to rhinestones.
Although the ``less is more'' idea appears to be in abeyance for the moment, streamlined contemporary looks in jewelry, handbags, and belts have not gone completely into hiding. Donna Karan, former co-designer of Anne Klein & Co., who made a hit with her first collection on her own, showed matte-gold jewelry of geometric links with her black dresses. The simple envelope handbag carries as much chic as the elaborately tapestried carpetbag. Calvin Klein's wide belts are simon-pure classics compared with f all's elaborately buckled cinches of textured leather or printed fabric.