Slow-cooker pea soup

Habitant pea soup, once thought to have warmed European explorers, hails from Canada. This slow-cooker version is a perfect supper for a frosty night.

The Runaway Spoon
Warm up a frost evening with this slow-cooker pea soup and a loaf of crusty bread.

Last fall, over a year ago now its hard to believe, I set out on a book tour to share Pimento Cheese The Cookbook (available at your local bookstore or online now) throughout the South, tasting all sorts of local specialties along the way. I drove myself for the whole tour, so I spent a lot of time in the car listening to public radio and a few podcasts.

One program I was listening to had a Canadian chef expounding the virtues of Habitant Pea Soup, a traditional Canadian dish I’d never heard of before. Maybe I was in the mood for some home cooked food, or the weather was turning cold or just the enthusiasm of the chef, but the story piqued my interest. And the story of this chef exploring the origins of the soup as a piece of Canadian heritage was fascinating. (If I remembered where I heard it I’d post a link!). He deduced that this was a dish made by the original European explorers out of their meager stores, and that it had remained in the Canadian culinary canon. When I got I home, I did a little research and came up with my own version of the soup, cooked in the slow cooker for simplicity.

Habitant Pea Soup is as comforting and homey as I thought it would be. The split peas, an ingredient I had only used in Indian cooking before, add a nice richness and creaminess to the soup, and the use of a ham hock and a little salt pork keep the soup from being plain or boring. In my research, I found a couple of different ideas. I settle on this version for ease of preparation, but one recipe suggested shredding the ham meat and crisping in a skillet and serving on top of the soup, rather than stirred through. I like that. Some suggested topping the soup with a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche. I like that, too. I can definitely imagine this warming up the original explorers on a cold Canadian night.

Habitant slow-cooker pea soup
Serves 6

16 ounces yellow split peas
1 ham hock (about 14 ounces)
6 ounces salt pork
1 medium onion, finely diced
2 stalks celery, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
6 to 7 sprigs of thyme
2 bay leaves

1. Spread the split peas on the bottom of a 7- to 8-quart slow cooker. Place the ham hock and salt pork on top, then the onion, celery and carrot. Pour over the chicken broth. Do not stir. Drop in the thyme sprigs (count how many stems so you can remove them later) and the bay leaves. Cover the slow cooker and cook on low for 7 hours.

2. Remove the salt pork, thyme stems and bay leaves and discard. Remove the ham hock to a plate and pull the meat off the bone using two forks. If needed, dice the hock meat into bite size pieces. Return the meat to the slow cooker, cover and cook a further 30 minutes.

3. Serve warm, topped with sour cream of crème fraiche if you like.

Related post on The Runaway Spoon: Slow-cooker tomato soup

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