(''Rating since 1979'')

4 Columbus Circle (8th Ave.) 212-977-6000 Restaurant guide that likes to think ''it can differentiate great chow from puppy chow''; uses thousands of non-Culinary Institute of America (CIA)-trained reviewers (''some have taste buds, some just have credit cards''), who never seem to have any trouble getting reservations at Bouley (''Zagat heaven'') or other top hash houses in 28 cities; head chefs (Tim & Nina) at this establishment arrive by limo and never get the table by the restrooms.

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