Masahiro Igarashi, a sushi chef at Tatsukichi in Boston offers these tips for making your own sushi:

* For sushi-quality fish (which should be firm, not chewy, in texture, and should not smell fishy), shop at a Japanese market. The quality is far superior to other grocery stores.

* ``Choose fish with light pink or red color,'' Mr. Igarashi says. ``Choose fish the same way as beef. You wouldn't want dark-colored beef, would you?''

* He recommends using California rice for sushi and cooking it in a rice cooker. When rice is cooked, be sure to steam it for 15 minutes.

* When wrapping rice with seaweed, be careful not to wet seaweed; seaweed has to dry to stay crispy. It is difficult, however, to form a rice ball without first wetting your fingers.

* Put a wet towel on the table to wet your fingers. And make sure to always use one hand for rice. The other hand should be kept dry for seaweed.

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