The basic white sauce of butter and Parmesan has, for generations, eclipsed all others among families of northern Italy as the favorite way of seasoning pasta. The sauce is produced by the heat of the pasta itself as it melts the raw cheese and butter, and by the care with which the pasta is tossed to fuse both ingredients to itself and to each other. It is perhaps the best sauce for developing and mastering that skill of tossing, which is essential to the success of any pasta dish. 1 lb. pasta 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) choicest quality butter 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Put hot, just-cooked, and drained pasta in a preheated serving bowl. Add about 4 tablespoonsful of grated cheese and toss rapidly and thoroughly, turning all the pasta in the cheese, which will begin to melt and cling. Add half the butter and another 4 tablespoonsful of cheese, and toss thoroughly and quickly again. Add the remaining cheese, and turn the pasta over with it three or four times. Add the remaining butter, toss until all the butter has melted, and serve at once with additional cheese at the table. Serves 4.

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