Getting acquainted. Ernest Hemingway called Paris a ``movable feast.'' The best way to see the city is to move around it yourself - preferably on foot. For those who understand French there are daily guided tours, announced in Le Monde newspaper, that take visitors through everything from the catacombs to arts neighborhoods or the old Jewish quarter. If you're into cemeteries, don't miss P`ere Lachaise, where Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison, and many more are buried. There are a number of books in English that take the walker on topic-specific jaunts. One of our favorites is Mary Ellen Jordan Haight's ``Walks in Gertrude Stein's Paris'' (Salt Lake City: Peregrine Smith Books, $11.95), which has given us a feeling for what Paris was like when it was crazy and artsy and unusual to be an American here. Museums. Most tourists will know about the Louvre (if you haven't been here for a while, you'll want to go back at least to see I.M. Pei's pyramid-shaped new entrance). There are dozens of other, smaller museums, if bigness turns you off, located in neighborhoods that you might otherwise have missed. In the Marais quarter, the Picasso Museum offers a fascinating look into the prolific artist's life; not far away is the worthwhile Mus'ee Carnavalet, which treats Paris's history through art, furnishings, and copious interpretive texts. (Did you know that Notre Dame was slated for demolition during the 1789 Revolution?) Food. Food is too personal - and too abundant and varied in Paris - to attempt any recommendations. But you can find yourself paying way too much for a mediocre meal here. So if you're into food, some guideposts are a good idea. Try Patricia Wells's ``Food Lover's Guide to Paris'' (New York: Workman Publishing, $12.95).

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