Cookbook celebrates spring in Budapest

B'ela Liscsinszky began his career as a photographer and is now head chef of a highly successful restaurant, The Golden Dragon, in the picturesque town of Szentendre, near Budapest. He is writing a series of cookbooks, divided into the four seasons. The first cookbook in the series is ``Foods for all Seasons: Spring in the Golden Dragon Inn'' (Budapest, Corvina Kiado, $10).

Although the recipes are based on ingredients which are available and regularly served at the Golden Dragon restaurant, the menus are not difficult to put together, whether one is living in Budapest, Boston, or Baltimore.

Mr. Liscsinszky belongs to the new international band of chefs dedicated to an awareness of the composition of foods and the importance of attractive presentation.

He is emphatic about the use of fresh, natural ingredients served at their seasonal best. The recipe quantities, usually for four, are given in both metric and imperial measures. Each recipe is illustrated with the author's own superb photographs, and often with helpful step-by-step pictures. The photography is inspirational in itself.

British readers should note that cup measures refer to the American eight fluid ounce cup in this edition. It is to be hoped that future books in the series will include an index of recipes and give gas mark oven temperatures to help readers who use gas ovens.

Here is one of B'ela Liscsinszky's recipes: Mushroom Caps Stuffed With Salami in Chive Sauce 10 ounces (300 grams) paprika salami 10 ounces (300 grams) ofmushroom caps 2 ounces (50 grams) onion 2 ounces (50 grams) grated Parmesan cheese 2 ounces (50 grams) butter 4 tablespoons flour Salt 2 hot green peppers 1 bunch chives 1 bunch parsley

Skin salami and chop it finely, along with onion, green peppers, and chives.

Wash mushrooms and drain on absorbent paper, season with salt and let stand a few minutes.

Dip mushroom caps in flour and fry in butter. Set aside.

In same butter, brown 2 tablespoons flour, sprinkle with chives, and thin with 400 millimeters (2 cups) cold water or stock. Season with salt, boil thoroughly, and keep hot until serving time.

Combine salami, onion, green pepper, and half of cheese with finely chopped parsley and stuff into mushroom caps.

Arrange mushroom caps in oven dish, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and broil until golden brown.

Serve with chive sauce.

J. Audrey Ellison is a British nutritionist and food consultant.

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