Mohammed Abd El-Zaher's bookshop has been binding books by hand since 1936, building a gilded reputation and withstanding the rise and fall of many a regime.
Voices from the 'other Egypt' show why the country is so riven – and what its next leaders face.
Leadership in the Middle East is up for grabs as the Syrian war intensifies, the Arab Spring changes regional power dynamics, and Israel's airstrikes and Hamas rockets again roil Gaza. Last year, Turkey was the assumed role model for the region. But it has fallen down on the job.
The opposition's Syrian National Council began a conference in Qatar yesterday to overhaul its structure. Many, including the US, have lost confidence in the fragmented group.
The elected president, Mohamed Morsi, purged the top brass that had constrained his authority. With civilian rule asserted, Morsi's own Muslim Brotherhood must now also bend to popular will and not use the state to hold onto power.