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Dining in Iceland: Grilled lamb, smoked salmon ... and putrified shark?

By Colin Woodard, Correspondent / January 21, 2009



Dining in Iceland: When I travel, I try to gorge myself on local cuisine. During my most recent trip to Iceland to report on lessons from its journey from a global finance go-go capital to credit-crisis roadkill, I filled up on grilled Icelandic lamb and smoked salmon, but passed on the puffin. (To read more about the roadkill, click here.)

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We have Atlantic puffins in my native Maine, but the birds are so rare that they’re regarded almost as an endangered species, the subject of painstaking restoration efforts and a considerable tourist industry.

But in Iceland, puffins are common – so much so that they’re actually on the menu. I couldn’t bring myself to eat them myself - they’re tiny, amusing little creatures, like penguins crossed with barn swallows - but I’m told they taste rich and gamey. I also passed on the hakarl – putrefied Greenlandic shark – which is said to be an acquired taste.

On a previous trip to Reykjavik, I did try another Icelandic dish, whale sashimi, at the insistence of a gregarious, bearded Icelandic whaler. “Best meat in the world!” he proclaimed as the lean, red, filet mignon-like slices arrived at the table. It was good, but not as nice as yellowfin tuna, which I’m happy to stick to in future.

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