Chilled soup: green garlic vichyssoise
Green garlic is a seasonal treat and combines with leeks and potatoes for a delicious chilled soup.
When it comes to large, hardworking families with big personalities, Allium outdoes even the Baldwin brothers. More savory recipes than not put at least one of member of the Allium family to work – onions (yellow, Bermuda, pearl, etc.), leeks, scallions, chives, garlic, and shallots. And then there are the seasonal workers – ramps, scapes and the star of last weekend’s Logan Square Farmers Market, green garlic.Skip to next paragraph
Terry Boyd is the author of Blue Kitchen, a Chicago-based food blog for home cooks. His simple, eclectic cooking focuses on fresh ingredients, big flavors and a cheerful willingness to borrow ideas and techniques from all over the world. A frequent contributor to the Chicago Sun-Times, his recipes have also appeared on the Bon Appétit and Saveur websites.
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Green garlic is just what the name implies – garlic picked early, before the bulbs have formed into cloves. Originally the byproduct of farmers thinning their garlic crops, green garlic has come into its own as a seasonal treat found almost exclusively at farmers markets and roadside stands. They look like overgrown scallions and have a more delicate taste than mature garlic. With Midwest temperatures suddenly in the 90s, that mild garlicky flavor was perfect for this chilled seasonal soup.
Green Garlic Vichyssoise is a cool, creamy, light first course with a subtle, satisfyingly garlicky finish. The chopped parsley garnish provides a nice fresh balance to the garlic.
Green Garlic Vichyssoise
Serves 4 as a first course
1 cup chopped green garlic, white and pale green parts, 6 to 8 stalks
1 cup sliced leeks, white and pale green parts, about 1 leek
2 cups peeled, large-diced potatoes (I used Yukon Gold)
1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups low sodium chicken broth (or vegetable broth)
3/4 cup half & half or cream
Chopped parsley for garnish
Prepare the green garlic and leek. Slice off the root base of the green garlic and peel away any tough outer parts of the stalks. Rinse carefully under cold running water. Slice the white and pale green parts and roughly chop. Trim the root portion from the leek and slice off the dark green leafy top. Slice the remaining white and pale green section of the leek lengthwise and carefully rinse, fanning layers under cold running water to wash away any grit trapped inside. Then slice into 1/2 inch pieces.
Cook the soup. Melt butter in a large stock pot or dutch oven over medium flame. Add the green garlic and leek, stirring to coat with butter and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to soften slightly, stirring frequently to avoid browning. Add potatoes and stir to coat with butter. Cook for about a minute, then add broth. Add just enough water to cover potatoes – I added 1-1/2 cups. Raise heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered until potatoes are cooked through and tender, about 20 minutes. Cool the soup briefly and then refrigerate until completely chilled. You can prepare it up to this point a day a head – in fact, letting it rest in the fridge overnight will bring out the green garlic’s flavor.