Homemade gnocchi in a sage browned butter sauce. (Three Many Cooks)

Sweet potato gnocchi

By Sharon Anderson, Three Many Cooks / 10.15.10

A year ago, I was almost purely a special occasion cook. I knew how to choose a good recipe out of the thousands on the Internet (or just flip to a page in one of Mom’s books). And I knew how to follow the recipe to get good results. Always aiming for the perfect, impressive, and complicated, I would prepare course after course, search for expensive wine, buy flowers, light candles, and set the table. Though mostly pleasurable, cooking was always such an ordeal.

But, it stands to reason that if something is difficult, you probably don’t want to do it very often. Over the last 12 months, however, I’ve been converted. Weeknight cooking is now my mainstay, and I continue to be surprised by how good it can be. I love the fast pace, the time constraints, the experimentation, and the screw ups.

But every once in a while, I still love to forget time and schedules and cook with complicated, impressive, ridiculous abandon. There is nothing like that overwhelming feeling of delight and pride when you take a bite of something you’ve so carefully made – surrounded by nice dishes, soft candle light, and good wine – and it’s just so freakin’ good. (And it ain’t bad when people tell you so, either.)

Last weekend was Dad’s birthday. With Mom and Maggy away on book tour, it was up to me to make sure Dad wasn’t alone – or worse, hungry – on his birthday. I figured a birthday was a better excuse than most to pull out all the stops.

For years I’ve wanted to attempt homemade gnocchi, and with autumn on its way, the idea of sweet potato gnocchi was absolutely stuck in my head. Tony’s Italian grandmother has taught him the simple art of gnocchi-making, so I figured with his knowledge and my enthusiasm we couldn’t fail. And let me tell you, we didn’t. The process was actually quite simple, and the finished product was unspeakably good – soft, light, savory pillows nestled up with sage, browned butter, and Parmigiano.

We also had some frozen beef short ribs that had lost their vacuum seal, as well as a head of cabbage that was getting on in days. (I know, we’re pathetic. Even with special meals, we can’t resist the urge to use up aging food.) So we braised the short ribs low and slow and served them over spicy sautéed cabbage. Anything braised on a bed of something is my favorite food in the world, and this was no different.

And since my father, who hardly ever eats dessert, can often be found standing in front of the freezer with a spoon in the carton of ice cream, we decided to finish off the meal with a simple homemade cinnamon-chocolate ice cream.

The meal was wonderful, as much for the food and candlelight, as it was for the company (and the compliments from Dad). He seemed so grateful that we’d put in all that time and energy just for him. And he said many times that night – and I tend to agree with him – that a special meal is about the best present you can give someone.

Sweet potato gnocchi

Serves 8 to 10 as a first course

However you sauce these gnocchi, keep it simple so their flavor can shine. I sautéed the gnocchi in a sage browned butter after they came out of the boiling water. This quick sauté leaves the gnocchi slightly crisp and pleasantly brown on the outside and tender on the inside. This recipe is adapted from Epicurious.com.

3 medium-large sweet potatoes, halved lengthwise
12 ounces ricotta cheese (drained if watery)
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano
1 1/2 teaspoons salt and ground black pepper
Pinch grated or ground nutmeg (optional)
About 2 cups of flour, more for rolling

Adjust oven to lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees F. Place potatoes, cut side down on a small foil- or parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Holding the potato in a pot holder-protected hand, scoop potato flesh into a bowl to cool completely. (You’ll need about 3 cups); mash with a fork. Mix in ricotta. Add cheese, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, several grinds of pepper, and nutmeg; mix until well blended.

Using more or less than the suggested amount, add flour 1/2 cup at a time and continue to mix until a soft (but not too sticky) dough has formed.

Divide dough into 6 pieces. Working 1 piece at a time, use your hands to roll dough into a long rope about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter. Cut the rope into 3/4 inch lengths. If you’re feeling adventurous, roll each gnocchi over the tine of a fork to get those restaurant-style indentations.

Repeat the rolling and cutting with each portion of dough. Transfer gnocchi in a single layer to a large, rimmed baking sheet and freeze them for at least 30 minutes, which helps them hold together during boiling. (Can be frozen in zipper-lock freezer bags for up to 3 months.)

When ready to cook the gnocchi, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Working in small batches, cook gnocchi until they start to float to the top – this indicates that they are cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon and top as suggested (see above).

Sharon Anderson blogs at Three Many Cooks.

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A breakfast burrito requires no utensils and in the case of the recipe below, you get your grains, protein, and vegetables in one package. (Sprouted Kitchen)

Picnic breakfast burritos

By Sara Morris, Sprouted Kitchen / 10.15.10

I am lucky to live in a place where you really could eat outside most months of the year. We have a special little spot, the grass hill above Salt Creek Beach, that has been our go-to picnic spot for a number of years. It’s no secret, families and couples gather on that hill around 5 o’clock with coolers of mismatched tupperware or take out of choice. It’s a pretty mild incline, so while eating on a hill may sound bothersome, it’s quickly excused when you figure the expansive view of the ocean everyone sees because of it. It truly is one of my favorite spots on earth.

While the people watching at dinner time is entertaining, we recently discovered the joy that is picnicking in the morning. I pick up breakfast burritos, Hugh brings coffee in a thermos, and we watch the quiet waves. It’s almost too perfect, oh and I love it. The only caveat is that there aren’t too many breakfast foods that travel well.

I imagine a frittata would suffice, or maybe even some pancakes if you wrapped them in the right container. However, a breakfast burrito requires no utensils and in the case of the recipe below, you get your grains, protein, and vegetables in one package! If you do decide to make them, whether you’re picnicking or not, add or take away fillings as you desire. Change the cheese, add bacon or potatoes if you’re feeling authentic. Whether it’s your backyard or a short drive to a pretty spot, go.

Picnic breakfast burritos

Makes 4

The deal with burritos, is that if you use standard size tortillas, the goods burst out. So after trial and error, we suggest either getting the large tortillas, or using corn tortillas, and making breakfast tacos as an alternative. Alter the amount of filling according to what size tortilla you choose.

2 cups baby tomatoes
1 teaspoon olive oil
3/4 cup diced yellow onion
Pinch of sea salt

10 eggs
1/4 cup whole milk
1/3 cup cilantro/basil, choppedl
Pinch of sea salt/pepper/ red pepper flakes

2 cups baby spinach
1 cup shredded pepperjack cheese
1 avocado

4 large, whole grain tortillas (see note above)

Oven to 350 degrees F.

1. Halve the baby tomatoes and put them on a rimmed baking tray. Add the diced onion, pinch of salt, olive oil and toss to coat. Roast on the upper rack for 20 to 25 minutes while you get everything else ready.

2. Crack the eggs into a large mixing bowl, add the milk and generously pinch of salt, red pepper flakes and pepper and whisk well. Whisk until they are a consistent color and all yolks are broken up. Add the eggs into a saucepan over medium heat (you really want almost medium low, as eggs that are cooked a bit slower tend to have a softer texture that flash cooked on high heat. Remember, you have to wait 20 minutes for the tomatoes anyway). Scramble the eggs slowly, when they are a few minutes to done, toss in all of the chopped herbs and turn off the heat, they will continue to cook, I promise.

3. Warm each of your tortillas over the stove to warm through, I like mine to get a few little blisters on each side. Lay them on a cutting board and sprinkle with the cheese. Make a layer of baby spinach, pile a quarter of the eggs, and the roasted tomato/onion mix, down the middle of each tortilla. Layer thin slices of avocado on top. Fold both ends, and roll if using a big burrito tortilla. If using taco size, you’ll halve the amount of goodies per tortilla.

Sara Morris writes a blog at Sprouted Kitchen.

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The Christian Science Monitor has assembled a diverse group of the best food bloggers out there. Our guest bloggers are not employed or directed by The Monitor and the views expressed are the bloggers' own and they are responsible for the content of their blogs and their recipes. All readers are free to make ingredient substitutions to satisfy their dietary preferences. To contact us about a blogger, click here.

Jamaica jerk chicken along with a some rice and peas and fried green plantains makes for the perfect balance of salty and sweet. (We Are Never Full)

Jamaican jerk chicken

By Amy Seponara-Sills, We Are Never Full / 10.15.10

Ahhh, jerk chicken. One of my favorite dishes. It’s spicy, kind of sweet and when made well should almost melt in your mouth.

Jerk was used as a way to preserve and cook meat and was originally only made with pork. Interestingly, I found that the work “jerk” comes from a Spanish word called “charqui” which means dried meat. This is how we coined the term “jerky” for that awesome, chewy and salty dried meat we can pick up in 711’s or other corner stores or truck stops. Another possible meaning of the word stems from what happens to the meat when you prepare and cook it – you poke it/or jerk it to produce a hole in order to fill it with the spice mixture (which I didn’t do). How about the way you cook it – you ‘jerk’ the meat off the coals. Whatever the derivation all I know is that it’s absolutely delicious! What’s even cooler is that jerk pork’s origins can be traced all the way back to 1655 during the pre-slavery days of West African hunters (the Cormantees) through a group of Jamaican slaves (Maroons) that escaped from the British during the invasion of that year. The Maroons supposedly developed and perfected the jerk as a way to preserve the meat while they lived in the mountains fighting the British troops.

Nowadays, various jerk recipes are passed down from Jamaican family to Jamaican family, but each recipe always includes allspice, hot chilies, salt and various spices and herbs. Traditionally it should be grilled slowly over a wood fire made of pimento (allspice) wood, just to infuse the flavor even deeper into the meat, and continuously basted with the marinade. I enjoy oven-cooking my jerk. If you stick on the broiler for a bit at the end, you can get a bit of crisp on the skin. WHOOOO HOOOOOO… absolutely fabulous! Give it a try yourself – it’s easy. Make it along with a some rice and peas and fried green plantains for the perfect balance of salty and sweet.

Jamaican jerk chicken

Serves 2 to 3

For the chicken and marinade:

2 breasts of chicken, skin on
2 legs of chicken, skin on
2 tablespoons allspice
1 tbsp. dried thyme
1 teaspoon hot paprika
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 scotch bonnet pepper (or other spicy hot pepper)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 cup of cilantro (you can substitute 1 teaspoon coriander seed)
Juice of 1 lime
Splash of orange juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 scallions
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Pinch of salt and pepper

If you are using allspice berries/seeds and whole cinnamon sticks, grind the spices down with a spice grinder. Then blend all the ingredients together in a blender until smooth (or smooth enough – you’ll have a bit of chunks of garlic and hot pepper). I used the olive oil to make it a wet rub. If you feel like you need more or less, adjust so it’s a thick paste.

Slab this on your chicken (remember to get under the skin if you can!). Wear some gloves if you have ‘em… this marinade contains hot pepper. Allow this to marinate for an hour at least, if you have the time. If you can marinate overnight, even better.

Cook your chicken pieces at 400 degrees F. for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until juices run clear. For the last minute, put on the broiler and allow some of the skin to crisp up a bit. Don’t let the marinade burn!

Rice and peas

1 cup white rice
1 can red kidney beans
1 small onion, minced
1 clove garlic
1 scallion, sliced
1 teaspoon garlic powder (optional – I really love garlic)
Chicken stock

Saute your onions and garlic over medium heat for a few minutes (keep em a bit crunchy). Add your rice, the garlic powder, scallions and beans. Add the rice and stir all together.

Pour enough chicken stock over your rice that it comes up the width of 2 fingers above the level of the uncooked rice. Bring to the boil and allow to cook down until it reaches the level of the rice. When the chicken stock has reached the level of the rice, stir once, turn your heat to low and cover. Cook on low for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes your rice will be perfect, give it a stir and enjoy.

note: Traditionally, Jamaican rice & pea should be made with coconut milk. Just replace the chicken stock with 1 can of coconut milk plus enough water so that the total amount of liquid follows the “2 finger rule” (see above).

Fried green plantains

2 green plantains
veggie oil
salt

Heat your veggie oil – you want enough to almost cover the plantains.

Peel plantains and cut into slices, about 1 inch thick.

Fry your cut plantains once for about 2-3 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Smash with a mallet and then fry again for another 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Drain and season with some salt.

Amy Seponara-Sills blogs at We are Never Full.

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The Christian Science Monitor has assembled a diverse group of the best food bloggers out there. Our guest bloggers are not employed or directed by The Monitor and the views expressed are the bloggers' own and they are responsible for the content of their blogs and their recipes. All readers are free to make ingredient substitutions to satisfy their dietary preferences. To contact us about a blogger, click here.