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Artichokes transformed

Italians know how to make this vegetable's leaves velvety and tender.

from the June 4, 2008 edition

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Carciofi Alla Romana

(Roman Artichokes)

12 artichokes
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup nipitella (an Italian herb also known as Calamintha nepeta) leaves, chopped, fresh (may substitute mint or thyme)
1/4 cup seasoned bread crumbs
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper, to taste

Peel the first two or three layers of tough outer leaves from the artichokes (until the petals are mostly white), and discard. Slice off the top green part. With a small knife, remove the small thorny center beard of the artichoke. Slice off the stems. Keep the first two inches of the stem for cooking, discard the rest. (If not cooking immediately, place the artichokes in a bowl of water with a few slices of lemon.)

Mix together the minced garlic, chopped herbs, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper.

With a small spoon, gently pry open the heart of the artichoke and insert approximately 1 teaspoon of the filling mixture.

Place the prepared artichokes, upside down, close together in a pot. If cooking the stems, cut into one-inch sections and place in the pot. Add 1 cup olive oil and enough water to reach halfway up the sides of the vegetables. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and place on the stove over medium heat. While cooking, periodically add water as necessary to maintain the halfway level, occasionally stirring the oil-water mixture to coat the artichokes. Cook at least an hour, or until tender. Can be served either warm or cold. Serves 6.

Carciofi fritti

(Fried Artichokes)

6 artichokes
1 cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
Oil, enough for deep frying
Salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon, to taste

Prepare the artichokes (as above). Slice each artichoke lengthwise into sections (four to eight, depending on size). Lightly dredge the artichoke sections in flour, then in the beaten eggs. Bring the oil to a temperature of 320 degrees F. and drop in the artichokes. Fry until golden brown (a few minutes). Remove and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon. Best served warm. Serves 6.

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