After brutal years, Kashmiris embrace new calm

Despite sporadic attacks, such as a bombing Wednesday, violence has dropped in the disputed region.

from the March 20, 2008 edition

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Gul Wani, a political analyst at the University of Kashmir, agrees that Pakistan has made "a complete U-turn on Kashmir."

The peace process between India and Pakistan that began in 2004 has produced positive results, regardless of any underlying political calculations, he adds. Since cross-border artillery exchanges have ceased, he continues, India has managed to build a fence and install a monitoring system that has made militant infiltrations almost impossible without detection.

India has long accused Pakistan of arming and funding militants on the Pakistani side of Kashmir, a charge Pakistan denies. Both sides claim the largely Muslim region in its entirety.

Some observers, however, say Pakistan should be given more credit for cracking down on militancy. Tahir Mohiudin, editor of the Kashmiri weekly newspaper, Chattan, insists there has been a "clear shift in Pakistan's policy" since the peace process began. He cites a four-point plan suggested by Pakistani President Pervez Musharraf in late 2006 that compromises on Kashmir to improve relations with India.

Despite the decline in violence, however, this region remains heavily militarized. More than 700,000 Indian troops are spread across the state. Nevertheless, Mr. Wani says that the current climate in the region presents a rare opportunity for the Indian government to reach out to separatists from a position of strength and send a message that it favors a political settlement.

Politically savvy Kashmiris argue that the government must cut security forces to reflect the newfound stability and attract investment.

In February, the mountain resort of Gulmarg hosted India's fifth national winter games, drawing thousands of athletes from home and abroad. Houseboat owners on the famed Dal Lake say the number of foreign visitors is up. And a bevy of discount airlines are docking at Srinagar's new terminal. A billboard reads: "Welcome to Paradise."

But a desire for peace – and work – is not to be equated with a diminished sense of nationalism. "Fear is used as a tool here," says Mr. Parvez, the activist who lost half his right leg to a land mine three years ago. "Some people might take a pro-India posture, but in their hearts, off the record, they want an independent Kashmir."

• This story was reported with a grant from the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting.

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