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| Lobster brothers: John (l.), and his brother Brendan Ready show off their catch in Portland, Maine. They sell 'shares' to
consumers. Robert F. Bukaty/AP |
Small fishermen borrow a page from small farmers
Community-supported fisheries, like community-supported farms, sell 'shares' in a catch directly to consumers.
from the March 10, 2008 edition
Page 3 of 3
Others argue that all groundfishing – essentially dragging nets across the ocean floor – is inherently an unsustainable practice. In Southeast Alaska, it's banned. None of the CSF groups have received the coveted certification on sustainability from the Marine Stewardship Council, an international nonprofit group.
Still others say there are too many ways to measure "sustainable" seafood. Until proposed rules are released, about the only thing fishermen cannot do is call seafood "organic" (the USDA is expected to rule on organic "wild captured aquatic animals" in August 2008, according to one recent prediction).
More than certification, fishermen say going to consumers has fostered an increased sense of responsibility and pride. "We're passionate about these fish," says Eric Jordan, a lifelong Sitka fisherman whose trolled chum salmon go to Alaska's Catch of the Season. "The real reward is in hearing from your satisfied customers." [Editor's note: The original version misidentified a type of salmon.]
But the efforts are hindered because some fishermen don't want to talk to customers, especially after eight hours on the water. Others say expecting home cooks to process raw, whole, head-on fish – gutting and scaling – isn't realistic. Furthermore, red tape associated with processing licenses is prohibitive for independent producers.
Maine organizer Burt says consumers in Rockland this year needed to invest more than money. "They really have taken a leap of faith to make this happen. It was not an easy sell – not like a bunch of carrots."
Still, with burgeoning interest in locally grown foods and farmers' markets, the community-supported fisherman might be a concept that will catch on. "It really isn't just about these 15 men and these 10 small boats," says Nancy Carter, an organizer with the Island Institute, which is providing funding for a marketing coordinator at the Port Clyde CSF. "It's about all these people that are aware about global warning and carbon footprint and make decisions about what they eat so they can sleep at night."
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