Fine chocolate is getting a new twist with unusual pairings

"If you happen to be a spicy-food lover, start with chili peppers," says Paula Keung of MarieBelle Chocolates in New York. "Regardless of what's trendy, you'll enjoy chocolate that has flavors you already like."

While MarieBelle has been making a chocolate bar with cinnamon and cayenne for years, this fall the company introduced a buckwheat tea truffle.

Ms. Keung suggests experimenting with chocolate drinks first.

On a chilly autumn evening, I decide to give it a go. Scanning my spice rack, I spot dried cumin. Grabbing the canister, I catch sight of a neglected orange on the counter. I heat milk in a saucepan, keeping the temperature on medium so as not to scald the milk. Next, I add cumin, barely a pinch since I'm making one serving. Then I grate just a bit of orange zest. I let the flavors infuse the milk for about two minutes before adding some Ghirardelli cocoa powder and stirring to mix.

At first sip, I taste the creaminess of the cocoa. Subtly the warm spice of the cumin tingles through, followed by the bright taste of citrus. I sip some more, trying to decide whether I like it or if I am just intrigued by the new flavors. Either way, it isn't long before I see my lips reflected in the ceramic bottom of the empty mug.

Satisfied with my first attempt, my eyes drift back to the pantry. Curry, coriander, chipotle, tarragon, even garlic. Garlic? Maybe. Then, I remember the bacon in my refrigerator. Why not?

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, unsifted

1/4 cup granulated sugar

4 cups low-fat milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a small bowl, whisk together the cocoa powder and sugar.

Heat the milk in a medium saucepan on medium-low heat until hot but not boiling, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Little by little add the cocoa and sugar mixture using the whisk to stir constantly. Add the vanilla, stirring to mix. Yield: Four servings.

Variations you may enjoy:

Peppermint Swirl: Replace vanilla extract with 1 teaspoon peppermint extract. Add 1 teaspoon of crushed peppermint stick to cocoa powder and sugar mix. Garnish with peppermint stick.

Mayan Spice: Add 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon and a pinch of cayenne pepper to cocoa powder and sugar mixture. Serve with cinnamon sticks.

Citrus Twist: Using a microplane or grater, lightly scrape the outer flesh of an orange, to create 1/4 teaspoon of zest. (Be careful not to scratch too deep; the white part underneath is bitter.) Before adding the cocoa powder mixture, add 1/4 teaspoon of ground cumin and the zest. Allow to seep for 2 to 3 minutes.

Thrice Spice: Replace granulated sugar with 1/4 cup light brown sugar. Add 1/2 teaspoon of ground cardamom, 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon, and a pinch of ground clove to cocoa powder and sugar mixture.

Source: "Enlightened Chocolate: More Than 200 Decadently Light, Lowfat, and Inspired Recipes Using Dark Chocolate and Unsweetened Cocoa Powder," by Camilla V. Saulsbury

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