The right way to eat corn on the cob – around or across?

'The great corn debate' divides a family each summer.

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Grilled corn four ways

Feelings run strong among grilled-corn aficionados about whether to shuck the corn before roasting or to grill it still in the husk.

Eric Nager (see essay at right) says that when corn is grilled in the husk, it's really steamed and doesn't have a grilled taste. "One then has to deal with hot husks," he adds. Mr. Nager likes the "fire" flavor that comes from grilling shucked corn.

Others counter that the husks keep the corn moist and tender.

Here's how Mr. Nager roasts corn on a charcoal grill:

Shuck corn and remove silk. In a small pan, melt a stick of butter per four ears of corn.

Place corn on the grill for about 10 minutes until kernels are browned and then brush with melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

To keep unshucked ears of corn more moist while grilling, you may want to baste them with butter or wrap them in slices of bacon before grilling.

To grill corn in the husks, carefully peel back the husks and remove the silk. Replace the husks (you can tie the top with twine, if you like) and soak the ears in water to cover for 30 minutes.

Grill over hot coals for 15 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times. Remove husks carefully – they'll be hot! Season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Here's a flavorful method that wraps the ears in aluminum foil:

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 teaspoon herbs (marjoram, rosemary, cilantro, sage, basil) OR 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

6 ears of corn, silk removed

An hour before grilling, mix butter and herbs or Tabasco sauce.

Then place each ear of corn on a square of aluminum foil that will cover the corn completely. Spread about 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture over each ear. Rewrap the husks over the butter-covered corn. Seal the foil around the ears.

Place foil packets on a hot grill and cook for 15 minutes or until the corn is hot and cooked.

Corn on the cob in the oven

You can also roast corn in the oven. Peel back the husks and remove the silk. Then replace the husks. Soak ears in water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain.

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Place ears of corn directly on the middle oven rack and roast, turning occasionally with tongs, for 20 to 30 minutes or until the corn is lightly browned. Carefully remove husks and serve with butter, salt, and pepper.

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