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| Fresh bounty: Shareholders here at Waltham Fields Community Farm in Waltham, Mass., receive a bag of produce each week throughout the growing
season. Mary Knox Merrill - staff |
Rooted in local fresh taste
Members of community supported farms reap the rewards of fresh and tasty produce.
from the July 25, 2007 edition
Page 3 of 4
Sautéed, grated summer squash concentrate
Filled with mostly air and water, squash can grow an inch or more a day. Because of its phenomenal growth, the flavors get diluted. All summer squash need serious flavor addition. Spices, herbs, and the right cooking method can take care of that. This recipe concentrates flavors by reducing the water the squash contains using a French culinary technique called dégorger.
2 pounds summer squash, unpeeled, coarsely grated
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, olive oil, butter, or a mixture of the three
Toss the grated squash with salt in a large bowl and let it sit on the counter for at least an hour. Drain the accumulated liquid and thoroughly rinse excess salt from the squash under running water. Dump onto a thin kitchen towel, then twist and squeeze as much liquid from the vegetables as you can.
Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add half of the oil or butter and the drained vegetable. Spread evenly in the pan and gently press down with a spatula. Reduce heat to low-medium and cook uncovered until nicely browned on the bottom, 15 to 20 minutes.
Place a flat platter over the pan and, wearing a pair of oven mitts, invert vegetables as a single patty onto platter. Return pan to heat, add remaining oil or butter and slip unbrowned side of the cake of squash back into the sauté pan. Continue cooking until bottom side browns, 5 to 10 minutes.
Serve as is for a side vegetable, or flavor with fresh herbs, spices, lightly browned garlic, or caramelized onion. Serves 4.
Slow-simmered beets
Freshly harvested beets have such magnificent flavor that I never embellish them with anything but a touch of seasoning. Beets are best simmered slowly in enough salted water to cover, unpeeled. Removing the peel after cooking and dicing is a messy but unavoidable task. But peeling beets before simmering takes away some of the flavor and dulls its beautiful ruby red color.
1 pound beets
1 teaspoon salt
Butter or cooking oil
Pepper, to taste
Cut greens off the beets – but not too close to the bulb itself. Leave the root end intact. Wash beets and place them in a cooking pot large enough to fit and cover with water and 1 teaspoon salt. Discard greens.
Bring the water and beets to full boil, then lower heat to a gentle simmer. Cover the pot and let simmer for 30 to 40 minutes for small to medium beets, 50 to 60 minutes for large ones. The beets are done when a skewer penetrates them easily.
Drain and rinse in cold water for a few minutes for easy handling. Wearing rubber or latex gloves, cut both ends of the beets and slip off the skin.
Slice or dice beets, then return to the cooking pot with a small dab of butter or olive oil. Heat over moderate heat while shaking the pan. Season with nothing more than a shake of salt and few grinds of pepper. Serves 4 as a side dish.
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