It's delicious no matter what you call it

In the past, an Indian mother-in-law used rasam as a quick test to gauge the cooking skills of her son's bride. Back then, a special vessel made of a low-melting alloy was used for rasammaking. If this pot was left on the fire too long – perhaps to tease the flavor from unripe tomatoes without adding sufficient water – the bottom would burn out.

The rasam pot is now an heirloom in most homes; the practice of devising kitchen tests for the new bride is also a thing of the past. Rasam is easy to make – any container or saucepan will do – but some loving attention enhances the flavor of the broth. This, of course, is the universal secret ingredient in all home-cooked food.

The New England-based restaurant chain, Legal Sea Foods, has drawn culinary inspiration from India's cuisine to create a dish that is at once nutritious and delicious. Along with clam chowder and baked Boston scrod, the menu offers rasam seafood soup, which is described as "shrimp, scallops, and scrod in a hot-and-sour tomato broth."

It seems that the well-traveled rasam is on its way to becoming haute soup.

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns (or less depending on your "heat" tolerance)
1/2 teaspoon powdered asafetida
A few fresh curry leaves (optional, see note below)
1/2 jalapeño or green chili pepper
2-inch piece of fresh ginger, finely diced
7 medium-size juicy tomatoes, chopped
1-1/2 cups water
Salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/2 teaspoon butter, melted
1 teaspoon honey
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
About 1/2 cup cooked rice, mashed (optional)

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over high heat and add cumin seeds, peppercorns, and powdered asafetida. Stir well for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium before adding the fresh curry leaves.

Add chili pepper and chopped ginger. Stir in tomatoes and cook until they soften. Mash the tomatoes well with the back of a broad spoon.

Add 1-1/4 cups of the water, salt to taste, brown sugar, and tumeric. Stir well to mix. Add melted butter and honey and stir together. (Depending on the consistency you prefer, add the other 1/4 cup water or omit it.)

Simmer until the mixture comes to a low boil. Stir occasionally when the rasam starts to bubble gently. Remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes for flavors to mix.

Strain (to remove the spices) and serve in small bowls.

Garnish with chopped cilantro, if desired. Serve as appetizer, to be drunk straight from the bowl. Or if you prefer a more substantial soup, add several tablespoons of cooked, mashed rice to each serving, to make the soup more filling. Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 for main course.

Note: Fresh curry leaves are available at most Indian grocery stores and are an added bonus in this dish. Don't buy brown or dried-out ones.

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