From 9/11 ruins, a restaurant's new spirit

"It's a very idealistic thing we're doing. If we accomplish half of the goals we've set out for ourselves, I'll be happy," says Stefan Malivaganam, Colors general manager. "I want to set the expectations at a level we can accomplish."

Less than 48 hours before the formal opening, Mr. Malivaganam is worried about accomplishing some simple but vital things, such as making sure the half-constructed bar is completed, the wet-paint signs are down, and the piece of paper with "LADIES" taped to the restroom door is replaced with proper brass letters. Then of course, there's the challenge of getting the service just right, which was fine-tuned after every meal during this test-run week in advance of the formal opening.

"Remember, all appetizers should be cleared at the same time, all main courses should be cleared at the same time, but don't pick anything up until everyone is ready - except dessert, of course," headwaiter Magdi Labib instructs the staff in a predinner meeting. That is followed by a spirited discussion about whether the linen-clothed tables should be set with a full silver setting - salad fork, dinner fork, knife, teaspoon, and soup spoon - or simply the fork, knife, and teaspoon, with the other utensils brought as needed.

"Everybody's coming with their own ideas, so there are a couple of rough spots that still need to get sanded out," says Eric Nusbaum, a restaurant consultant who's offered his services at about a third of his normal rate. "But in the long run, that will actually be better and more positive because it will keep people active and more interested."

It is that determination that workers have a hand in ensuring the place runs smoothly that prompted Julee Resendez to come here as beverage director. She is one of about a dozen employee-owners who didn't work at Windows but at other elite, and often high-pressure, restaurants around the city.

"When I came for an interview, it was like they were speaking to my heart about all of the things that I wanted in a place to work," she says. "I felt like it was a big healing for myself."

But in the first few days of operation, it's also become clear that changing traditional employment rules and roles may be the biggest challenge of all.

"We had our first meeting yesterday since we opened, and there's going to be some growing pains. There's no doubt about it," says Malivaganam, the general manager. "It's about how you speak to people. It's not just about the message, it's about how the message is conveyed. And it's very, very important to have respect and consensus instead of a dictatorial approach."

Lindor smiles, shyly, and shakes her head when asked about her own ownership stake and ideas for the place. Like some others here, this is the first full-time job she's had since the attacks, and she's just grateful to be back among her Windows colleagues.

"Every day I thank God I survived 9/11, and every day I thank God that I am here," she says. "I'm very excited about everyone working together again, like a family."

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