A traditional Indian fabric endures

Only the intoxicating fragrance of the jasmine that flower girls sell along the teeming sidewalks hints at the hidden opulence of the shopping district. Otherwise, Panagal Park, with its modest bazaar vendors and dusty traffic, is a far cry from New York's Fifth Avenue.

But enter one of the multistoried silk stores, and you'll hear elevator gossip reminiscent of Tiffany's or Bergdorf Goodman: Is it true that celebrity came to the first floor today? No, she came yesterday; another one came today.

What they shopped for were Kanchipuram silk saris, considered the Versaces of southern India, because one piece can cost $1,000. Many will last a lifetime with good care, and all represent status.

Kanchipuram silk, named after the city in which it's produced, is a tradition that some say goes back hundreds of years, perhaps to the origins of the city in the 8th or 9th century. The colors are brilliant, and the designs of tropical flora and fauna, in gold thread, are exquisitely geometric.

The Kanchipuram silk sari was seriously threatened a decade ago because of changing trends, says K. Viswanathan, owner of a silk store in Panagal Park."The Kanchipuram silk sari was going to expire, because younger women were discarding saris for other kinds of clothes. Only older women were wearing them, and so the sari became unfashionably associated with grandmothers."

In an effort to save his family silk business and to "give the sari a fair chance of survival," Mr. Viswanathan set up a design studio that would cater to new tastes. Other silk houses also began to innovate.

Sinuous Persian motifs and millefleurs supplanted the traditional simplicity and geometry of Kanchipuram motifs. Pastels replaced the brilliant colors younger people frowned on as loud and gaudy. And the labor-intensive process of connecting the border and the main part of the garment was largely given up. Instead, the yarn was dyed in different colors to give the contrasting border-body effect.

The tech boom in India has sustained the Kanchipuram silk sari comeback. Increased household incomes mean more money to spare on luxuries. Nonresident Indians have also played a part in the renaissance. "They're the ones who really want to hold on to traditional clothes and habits," says Viswanathan.

This silk was once woven for Hindu royals. Historically, Kanchipuram was the seat of an important south Indian kingdom known for its Hindu temples. The stone carvings and bas-relief on these centuries-old temples inspired the traditional motifs - such as stylized swans, lions, serpents, roosters, elephants, peacocks, and flowers - on the brocade, experts say.

"The Kailasanathar temple has so many beautiful carvings that became designs on silk saris," says V. Rajendran, zonal director of the Weavers' Service Center in Madras.

More than the designs, it's the weaving technique itself that makes this brocade special. "This technique is very exclusive, very time-consuming," says Shakuntala Ramani, chair of the weaving center at the Kalakshetra Foundation, an institution instrumental in reviving ethnic designs.

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