Women get down to business in Aceh

"I can't say if it is because of my high skill level, but I have made clothes for President Megawati," says Agustina, owner of a garment and embroidery business that was destroyed. She is wearing one of her own creations, a gorgeous white tunic with pink floral embroidery. "I still have orders coming in," she adds with a wry smile, including orders from the current Indonesian president's wife. "But I can't do the work for them because I don't have the machines."

Banda Aceh certainly has a level of name recognition that even good Madison Avenue money can't buy. A scarf made in Banda Aceh would fly off the shelf at Barney's, just as Afghan scarves and dresses did a few years ago. Yet business owners like Agustina say that they have to be realistic and focus on the needs of the local market. Right now that market is too uncertain to hire new employees, or to take out expensive loans to buy new sewing machines.

"I'm thinking that it's difficult to make people wear beautiful dresses these days because people aren't thinking about beautiful things or parties. They just want basic clothes, and they are putting their money into important things."

In short, the market has changed, and Agustina knows she has to change with it. "I know that I can make clothes, but I'm not sure if I can sell them. If you're not sure of the market, you can't take a risk with it."

Nur Asmah, vice president of the Indonesian Women's Business Association, which is running classes with funding from the International Labor Organization, says that businesswomen can have a significant effect in the local economy.

"Nowadays, a lot of husbands are getting help from their wives. And mothers who have businesses can help their families pull themselves up," says Mrs. Asmah, who owns an interior-design business that was destroyed in the tsunami. "We hope that if more women start businesses, their children will be able to stay in school instead of having to go to work, and in the long term, this can have a good effect on society."

Asriyani, who ran a catering business before the tsunami, dreams of opening a doughnut shop. But to make enough doughnuts to see a reasonable profit, she needs to mechanize her operation. Until now, she's made all her cakes and sweets by hand.

It's a risky decision, but Asriyani says the opportunities are too great to ignore. "A good mix machine in Medan costs 5 million rupiah [about $550], but if I buy that, maybe my income will go just to pay off the machine," she says. "But I'm confident, and motivated, and I have ambition."

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