Zhao remembered, but cautiously

The home sits in an old hutong neighborhood of gray one-story homes of the type now being rapidly torn down. It abuts Wangfujing, one of Beijing's poshest commercial streets, where high-heeled shoes, expensive watches, and all manner of luxury goods are available.

Despite the news blackout and a thrall of police and plain clothes security standing at Zhao's street, a steady stream of mourners, wearing or carrying white flowers, could be seen walking past huge billboards and plate glass windows toward the Zhao hutong. They were interspersed with thousands of shoppers flooding the street in preparation for the Chinese New Year's, who had no idea the former leader had died, or that he had lived a block away. Mourners braved the police, had their photos taken, and registered in a log book - prior to entering the house. One young man stayed all day, writing down the title of every book in Zhao's study - and then published his catalogue on the Internet.

Only mourners with invitations from the family were allowed inside. These were obtained by a phone call or personal relations. China's No. 4 ranking leader, Jia Qinglin, attended on behalf of the state. No mention of Zhao's title as premier or general secretary of the party - the highest rank in China - prefaced his name. Officially, he was known as "comrade" Zhao, the title of an ordinary party member.

While no words were allowed, angering many mourners, the family did issue a tastefully designed card with a large photo of Zhao on the cover, signed, "thanks to everyone." In the photo Zhao appears tanned and hale - quite unlike recent news shots of him where he looked like a party functionary wearing thick turtle-shell spectacles, or as a tired figure in Tiananmen Square, with a megaphone in his hand. Zhao was 85.

"It was very solemn, very sad, we are having trouble with our emotions right now," says a mourner who found out about the death on an American Chinese website, called to reserve an invitation, and drove more than 120 miles to come. "I will never forget Zhao. He was for the people, and he spoke the truth to us, and was the only one who did."

A number of ordinary farmers, peasants, and working people were turned away from the cemetery with tears. Some mourners carried folded up poems about respect for elders and for honorable leaders.

After the service, the state-run Xinhua news agency issued the first mention of Zhao in 15 years, since June of 1989 when he was purged. Zhao did make contributions and held several leading positions after Mao died, the statement said, but "in the political turbulence which took place in the early summer of 1989, Comrade Zhao made serious mistakes."

Several attendees said they would not attempt to meet together for lunch or discussion afterward as it seemed "too dangerous." Several sources said their cellphones were tapped and that they had stopped speaking to each other of Zhao on the phone.

The zero-degree temperatures and high winds in Beijing was noted by one mourner, who at first was afraid to speak to reporters. Later in the subway, she said, "Maybe the gods made it so cold today because of the passing of good people," then quickly slipped away.

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