Rare Gandhi-style protest in India

Medha Patkar is not the last living Gandhian, but she is certainly part of a dying breed.

The Gandhian-style nonviolent resistance methods that gave this country its independence have been trumped by the politics of influence, where money or threats or a combination of the two brings results. Holding a hunger strike or a sit-in is about as fashionable as a Swadeshi loincloth.

That, at least, is the conventional wisdom. But Medha Patkar and her scrappy band of environmentalists, villagers, and poets who are protesting India's largest ongoing dam project have never been conventional.

"When I came to the Narmada valley, one felt that something must be done," says Ms. Patkar, sitting in her tiny two-room apartment that doubles as her office in Bombay (Mumbai). "The initial estimates were that only 7,000 families would be affected by the rising waters, but they hadn't done proper surveys. Now there are more than 43,000 families. Those people are just thrown away."

If one is looking at physical results, then Patkar's movement, the Narmada Bechao Andolon, is an outright failure. Despite 19 years of Gandhian sit-ins, hunger strikes, road blockades, and even refusals to budge from villages that are about to be flooded, the Narmada Sardar Sarovar dam project is nearly completed, pushed by big money, big industry, four state governments, and for a while, the World Bank. Yet the impact of Patkar's nonviolence in the Narmada valley has been so great that future big-dam projects will surely have to adjust their methods to secure local support.

"Nonviolence is our shield," says Parvin Jehangir, spokeswoman for the Andolon in Bombay. "The state tries to make you violent, they will harass you, put false charges on you. But once you use violence, the police are trained to return violence."

For beneficiaries, there is much to love about the Narmada project. The effort, which includes 30 large dams and 300 smaller ones, would divert water to two states that are perpetually short of it - Gujarat and Rajasthan - and send hydroelectric power to two states the are increasingly home to industrial growth - Maharashstra and Madhya Pradesh. Skeptics question the expense of irrigating Gujarat's desert, which has never supported agriculture. One dam in Madhya Pradesh will submerge more land than it will irrigate.

Most opposed to the dams are the people who live in the project's flood zone - 136 miles long, and three to six miles wide on each side of the river. Narmada valley residents are among India's most disenfranchised citizens. Many are adivasis, members of tribal societies that predate the advent of Hinduism. There was no attempt by the government to win their approval, and for them, the dam amounts to theft of their land.

In the village of Jalsindhi, Gulab Singh wades to his knees in the Narmada River and points to a spot deep under water.

"That was my land," says Mr. Singh, one of the estimated 100,000 tribals who will be displaced by the Narmada project. "My house was there."

Jalsindhi village has been disappearing over the last decade, as officials slowly increased the height of the Sardar Sarovar Dam. Earlier this year, they raised the height from 330 feet to 360 feet. When the monsoon comes, the basin will reach its highest point yet, and Jalsindhi will cease to exist.

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