Country duo in step with Texans

Outside La Zona Rosa, a popular music venue here, folks are dressed up by the standards of a town with the unofficial motto: "Keep Austin Weird." Which is to say, a lot of people are wearing their good jeans and fancy boots.

There's legitimate cause for such hifalutin' duds: This is a celebration.

They mill about, patient in their eagerness to witness a rare pairing of two of the most beloved singer-songwriters around. One is more famous for her voice; the other for his songwriting. Both have gained national acclaim. To say they are a force together is to call a hurricane a scattered shower.

With little pomp and less circumstance, nine musicians glide across the dark stage. The six men and three women take up guitars and keyboards, drums, mandolin, and fiddle. Up come the lights, and the voice of Kelly Willis fills this cavernous space to the brim with bell-clear pureness.

The opening tune, "If I Left You," written by Willis, is catchy, at once poignant and a little bit funny as the protagonist chides a recent ex for inappropriate postbreakup behavior.

And the way she sings it, well let's put it like this, Willis sings so pretty that, unlike some performers, even if she were ugly she'd still have legions of fans. (As it happens, she's been on People magazine's Fifty Most Beautiful People list.) The crowd responds with enthusiastic whoops and applause.

Among those clapping is Bruce Robison, Willis's husband - the other reason for tonight's big buzz. Robison has written two No. 1 country singles. Tim McGraw took "Angry All the Time" up the charts in 2000. And earlier this year, The Dixie Chicks scored big with "Travelin' Soldier."

That was right before Chick Natalie Maines publicly put a fine point on her feelings about the White House. Robison jokes about the momentary fallout onstage, referring to "Travelin' Soldier" as "the fastest descending country single ever in country music history," but hastening to add how proud he is of "the girls" for sticking up for their beliefs.

It is telling to observe their onstage dynamic as they alternate leads, provide backup vocals, and sing duets like "Always and Forever." They are not annoyingly goo-goo eyed, not competitive, not putting on some high-sheen country act.

They are clearly delighted not only to be playing together, but to be playing at all. Both used to gig more (though their annual Christmas shows remain a sure bet). But last spring, twins Abby and Ben arrived. With big brother Dodie, that brought the number of kids under 2 in the family to three and the amount of adult free time down to zero. "This is our It's Good To Be Out of the House Tour," Robison cracks.

A month after the show, on Dodie's first day back to preschool, the couple leaves the babies with their nanny to go out for morning coffee.

"This is like Christmas morning," says Robison, happy that some routine has resumed in their lives. "Just to have that little tiny bit of when you can do your work."

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