It's cool to be a cowboy in Brazil's 'Wild West'

Mr. Moraes' feat not only won him the privilege of being the only Brazilian to be honored in the US with a life-size statue, it is also conclusive evidence that the Brazilian riders have the potential to provide real competition for their American counterparts. US cowboys familiar with Brazil say that Brazilian riders have learned quickly on the sand and organizers have taken advantage of it.

"There's been a huge jump in the development in the sport," says Barney Brehmer, a Texan who judged at Barretos for nine years. "Professionalism, talent, fairness, purses ... it has really upgraded in every respect."

The heroic deeds of bull riders, however, are not the only reasons people travel for hundreds of miles to take in the atmosphere at Barretos. What goes on before and after the broncos buck is a key factor in setting Barretos apart from the more traditional rodeos in North American cities like Houston or Las Vegas.

During the day, agricultural shows attract farmers, and a small petting zoo with cows, sheep, and ponies keep youngsters entertained. When the sun goes down, the park's restaurants are packed with people eating barbecued beef, and western shops sell everything from cowboy hats to leather polish do a roaring trade. Outside, cowboys and cowgirls of all ages dance to the ridiculously loud sounds of The Rolling Stones, Kenny Loggins, and the ubiquitous Shania Twain.

Ms. Twain's trademark pop country twang booms relentlessly from every corner of the 311-acre park, indicating how crossover country - and Brazil's home-grown version, sertanejo - has become one of the festival's big draws.

Although many in Brazil's more cosmopolitan cities dismiss sertanejo as provincial and tacky, big names can easily sell out the park's 35,000-seat arena. Garth Brooks, Alan Jackson, and Reba McEntire have all played to packed houses here and although the fall of the real, Brazil's currency, has made the hiring of international stars prohibitively expensive, the locals are just as happy to see Brazilian duos like Zeze di Camargo and Luciano, and Xitaozinho and Chororo.

Just as country entered the mainstream in North America in the 1990s, sertanejo is gaining respect in Brazil, and country and sertanejo now account for 21 percent of all sales, up from 9 percent 10 years ago, says Mattheus Calil, president of Clube da Viola, an agency that manages four of Brazil's best-known duos.

Mr. Calil says bringing artists to Barretos is a no-brainer. It's the nation's "country capital." At least once a year.

"Everything that happens here has the chance of going nationwide," Calil says. "Barretos is our focus, the national meeting point for country fans."

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