Comfort food still on front burner

1 cup diced onion
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups low-fat milk
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
10 ounces extra-sharp aged white Cheddar, grated, plus 2 ounces, grated
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
8 ounces corkscrew-shaped pasta (Burros suggests cavatappi )
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a large saucepan, cook the onion in the butter over low heat until it is soft but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the flour. Remove from the heat and whisk in the milk until thoroughly blended. Return to medium heat and cook, stirring, until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard, the 10 ounces of Cheddar, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and hot pepper sauce.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package directions until just al dente. Drain but do not rinse. Stir immediately into the prepared cheese sauce until well blended. Adjust the seasonings. Spoon the mixture into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Top with the remaining 2 ounces of Cheddar and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Place the rack in the bottom third of an oven that has been preheated to 400 degrees F. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the mixture is hot, bubbling throughout, and golden.

Makes 3 to 4 servings as a main dish or 6 servings as a side dish.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
3/4 pound ground beef
3/4 pound ground veal
3/4 pound ground pork
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 lightly beaten eggs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup ketchup, plus 5 tablespoons for glazing
3 tablespoons saltine cracker crumbs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 strips bacon, optional

Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In a frying pan, melt the butter; sauté the onion in the butter over medium heat until it is soft and golden. Add sautéed onion to the meats along with the Worcestershire, eggs, mustard, 1/4 cup ketchup, cracker crumbs, and salt and pepper. Gently mix the ingredients until well blended.

Spoon the mixture into a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and pat gently. Spread the remaining ketchup over the top and lay the bacon slices over the loaf, if desired.

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and drain off the fat. Allow the loaf to sit for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.

Yields 8 slices.

- Adapted from 'Cooking for Comfort'

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