The city on a hill - and on a crayon

In the week before the Palio, the town is filled with anticipation and preparation. In each contrada, flag-waving rehearsals are held in the neighborhood's square. Each district has flags decorated with its own emblem and chooses young bearers to twirl the flags in an elaborate display during the historical procession leading up to the race. Why flags? No one knows for certain. But some note that in medieval Tuscany, colored flags were used as signals to armies.

The night before the Palio, drums and singing echo in the streets, and huge dinners are held in the contrade.

As the day of the Palio dawns, the bell in the Palazzo Pubblico begins its day-long ringing, audible far beyond the city gates. Each horse is blessed in the church of its contrada; flags fly from every street corner.

Late in the afternoon the pageantry of the Palio procession begins: Representatives of each district parade in elaborate 15th-century costumes that cost thousands of dollars. They're accompanied by drummers and the flag bearers.

Then the cart carrying the palio (banner), drawn by four oxen, enters the Campo to the fanfare of the Town Hall's silver trumpet.

Before the horses take their places at the starting line, there is much strategizing. Instead of just racing to win, one contrada might conspire with another to block or interfere with a common "enemy." Or jockeys may give out misinformation about their horses or strategies. This is considered an essential part of the Palio.

Finally, at 7:30 p.m., the race begins - three loops around the Piazza del Campo, less than two minutes of mayhem accompanied by constant shouting from the crowd. After all, the banner and the neighborhood's honor are at stake.

All night the winners and their allies parade through the streets showing off the silk palio, beating drums, shouting, and waving flags, while contrada leaders make plans for the next Palio.

It's difficult to find a hotel room in Siena during Palio time. Try to make reservations at least four months ahead. Grandstand seats are quite expensive ($350 or more), but there is free standing room in the piazza. Unless you line up very early, you'll mostly see other spectators.

For more information, see www.sienanet.it and www.initaly.com.

• The best time to visit Siena is May through September, which is also high tourist season. Hotel reservations are essential during this time.

• The Palio is held July 2 and Aug. 16.

• For more information, call the Italian Tourist Board at (212-245-4822).

• Contact the Siena tourist office by phone at 011-39-0577-280551, e-mail at aptsiena@siena.turismo. toscana.it, or visit the website at www.siena.turismo.toscana.it.

• Another website: www.comune. siena.it/turismo/webasp/home.asp.

• Siena hosts two important summer music festivals each year. The town's Academy Chigiana, one of Italy's most important music schools, holds a festival each July or August. Siena Jazz, an event that takes place in July and August, is an international jazz festival.

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