Lounging luxuriantly on a toasted English-muffin throne upholstered with ham, swathed in a golden robe of rich hollandaise sauce, and crowned with a sprinkling of caviar or, for those most royal occasions, a thin slice of black truffle, Eggs Benedict is the reigning queen of the brunch. And so it has been for decades.

Exactly where this majestic, ubiquitous midmorning offering was conceived is a topic of some debate. But most reliable sources trace it back to the swanky old Delmonico's Restaurant in Manhattan, where a couple with the marvelous moniker of Mr. and Mrs. LeGrand Benedict were regular diners.

It is said that Mrs. Benedict's eyes began to glaze over when presented with the menu, so she complained to the maitre d'hotel that she was bored with the offerings.

The gracious maitre d' asked her for suggestions. And voila!

Out of their colloquy appeared Eggs Benedict.

Another less-popular story is that Wall Street broker Lemuel Benedict and restaurateur George Lang, in collaboration with the chef of New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, came up with the dish.

And a few hangers-on in the Old South still believe that it came about at the legendary Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans - but there's little evidence to support that theory.

Whoever gets the credit, everyone agrees that it is a decidedly American creation and a perfect centerpiece to a special brunch. Twelfth Night (Jan. 6) might be just the occasion, or perhaps a Valentine's Day breakfast for two.

Although the poached egg has remained stable on its English-muffin throne, the other trappings have changed over the years. (See story below.)

Rich as any European kingdom, this simple, elegant repast can elevate a gathering of commoners to an almost royal status.

2 tablespoons butter
6 slices cooked ham or Canadian bacon
6 poached eggs (recipe below)
3 English muffins, split in half with a fork
Hollandaise sauce (recipe below)
Chopped parsley, optional

Heat butter in a large skillet; sauté ham or bacon briefly in the butter, turning once.

Toast English muffins.

Place a piece of ham or Canadian bacon on each muffin half, and top each with a poached egg.

Cover each muffin half with hollandaise sauce. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve while still hot.

Serves 3 to 6.

3 egg yolks

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 pound butter

Put the egg yolks, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper in a blender or food processor. Blend together.

Next, heat butter in a small saucepan until bubbling; do not let it brown.

Turn on blender or processor; slowly add melted butter and blend until sauce is thick and smooth, about 15 seconds.

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