Maine's great – even if you hate lobster

When the travel editor dispatched me to Portland, there was something I should have disclosed to her. Maine is home to a monster that terrifies me: the lobster. I mean, here's a creature that's practically a mixture of arachnid, scorpion, crab, and cockroach – what's to like?

It's not as if I haven't tried to overcome my aversion. A few years ago, I tried ordering one off a menu. But when I saw the size of the claws on the plate, it looked more like it was about to eat me than the other way around. With just a mere knife and fork to defend myself, I opted for discretion over valor and swapped dishes with my companion.

I wondered if it would be possible to spend an entire weekend in Maine without having to eat a lobster, but I gamely set off to the rustic land of lighthouses.

I'm glad I did. Maine's largest city – comprised of just 62,500 people – offers a very gratifying weekend getaway.

The best way to experience Portland is to start at the top. The lounge at the top of the Eastland Park hotel has the best view of the city – truly spectacular at dusk.

Actually, it's the bay rather than the urban detail that draws the eye first. There are dozens of little boats, but little traffic apart from ferries departing the harbor. An impressive miniature archipelago of more than 700 islands of all shapes and sizes are silhouetted against the horizon as the light of the setting sun slices between them.

From that lofty vantage point, the cityscape is less arresting. It's only at street level that Portland's character becomes evident. Actually, the streets aren't level at all – the heart of the town is paved with cobblestones, and many of the roads have a slight incline. Even so, this is a town well-suited to walking – and shopping.

In an age of malls, it's refreshing to visit a place where stores have welcome mats outside their entrances and hanging baskets of flowers above door frames. Here, art stores rub elbows with antique sellers, jewelry stores, toy stores, and pottery studios. You can buy perfumes next to a store that specializes in goods from Scandinavia, which is worth visiting just for its imported chocolate-bar selections.

These tourist-suited establishments have worked hard to create a quaint, rustic appearance – 20 years ago, few of them were here. Before this downtown area became an arts and cuisine bazaar, the red-brick buildings were largely in disrepair, often empty. It was a growing community of artists, initially attracted by low rents, who set gentrification into motion.

Portland's origins as a working port since 1632 are still in evidence. The farmers of the sea still rise before dawn, often congregating at Becky's diner on the waterfront as early as 4 a.m. Well, so I'm told. I can't claim to have been around to verify that.

Thank goodness Becky's welcomes late risers such as me. By 9 a.m. on a Saturday this establishment is filled with a mix of locals and outsiders eating from a kitchen that serves up everything from fresh cantaloupes to crepes. (And there's not a single mention of lobster on the breakfast menu, which is a plus.)

From Becky's, you can opt for excursions on either land or sea. The neighboring marina offers personalized boat trips into Casco Bay. But a less expensive way to get close to seals and marvel as they slip beneath the Atlantic without creating a ripple is to take a ride on America's oldest ferry service. The sunset cruise ferry stops at all of the major islands, while the daily three-hour mail boat run offers an even more extensive tour.

Afterward, you can visit Custom House Wharf's many hole-in-the-wall eateries for a fresh catch of the day.

The non-nautically inclined can catch a trolley tour almost directly across the street from Becky's. It's a great way to get a quick overview of the city, its layout, and its history.

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