The Maine attraction beyond blueberries, lobster

But Kelly longed to have her own restaurant. When she and Mr. Kushner, who was the inn's pastry chef, found a restaurant with a small flower garden on four acres in Rockland, they knew they'd found their dream.

Their goal was to start serving food from the garden on opening day. Gardener Dan Gross began with ingredients most difficult for Kelly to find fresh in Maine – herbs, edible flowers, and salad greens.

Inspired by Elliot Coleman, whom he calls "the guru of growing in Maine in the winter," Mr. Gross relies on an unheated greenhouse.

He starts the growing season with produce that he believes is at its best in the cold – such foods as spinach, miner's lettuce, arugula, carrots, and Asian greens, including mizuna and tatsoi as well as hakurei turnips.

Primo's rustic menu is inspired by cuisines of the coasts of Italy and France. The pizzas and pastas are popular, as are seafood dishes such as wood-roasted local hake with a summer succotash of peas, corn, Vidalia onions, and new potatoes.

At both Arrows and Primo, guests are encouraged to stroll through the gardens before dinner – a valuable part of the dining experience at any restaurant farm garden, says Mr. Wolf. "In today's uncertain age," he says, "we like to know where food comes from. And out back is closer than down the road."

Vinaigrette:

3 large shallots

12 peppercorns

1/2 cup sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salad:

4 large red beets (or 2 red and 2 yellow)

Salt

3 ounces lettuce, washed and dried

3 ounces mesclun (mixed baby greens), washed and dried

1/2 pound farmer's cheese, crumbed

Place all of the vinaigrette ingredients in a blender. Blend until smooth. Set aside. (This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated in a sealed, nonreactive container.)

Place the beets in a saucepan with cold water to cover and 2 teaspoons of salt, and bring to a boil. Cook until a small knife can be slit into the beets without resistance, about 20 minutes. (If using yellow beets, cook them separately.)

Drain the beets and place them in ice water until cool. Using your fingers, remove the skin from the beets and discard. Slice the beets into 1/8-inch rounds.

In a large stainless or glass bowl, toss the greens with 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette. Arrange the greens in the center of six chilled plates. In the same bowl, place the beets and 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette, and lightly toss. Arrange the beets on top of the dressed lettuce on plates. Sprinkle the cheese over the top of the salads and serve.

Serves 6.

6 sheets parchment paper

6 salmon fillets (about 6 ounces each)

1 bunch of scallions (6 to 8), chopped

Extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup fines herbes, minced (about 1/4 cup each of chervil, parsley, chives, and tarragon)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. For each fillet, fold a piece of parchment paper in half and cut a heart shape – which efficiently accommodates the fish and other fillings – about 3 to 4 inches bigger than the fish. Place a fillet near the fold with a handful of chopped scallions beside it. Drizzle the fish with olive oil, then sprinkle it with salt, pepper, herbs. Top this with a pat of butter.

Tightly fold up the edges of the parchment paper. Place the packages on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the parchment paper is puffed and slightly brown. Remove from the oven and open carefully to let steam escape. Serves 6.

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