A ride on Amtrak's long-distance sunset

As the Sunset Limited pulls into the Orlando train station, Amtrak attendant Guy Hancock steps off, looks over our tickets, and welcomes us with his big grin and trademark drawling phrase: "My-yyy buddy."

We board this train with questions. What kind of person takes a four-day train ride to Los Angeles? Why? And above all: Can this really be enjoyable?

Cash-strapped Amtrak is threatening to cut 18 long-distance routes should federal funding not increase substantially this year. From among the endangered trains, a photographer and I have chosen the Sunset Limited because it is the longest route, the only to go coast-to-coast, and it loses the most money.

After Guy's disarming welcome, he shows us to our cabins. "Where are the beds?" we ask when we see our Superliner Standard Bedroom. Closet-like, the room fits two face-to-face seats – and not much else. Guy demonstrates how the seats fold down to create a bottom bunk, and pulls down the stow-away top bunk.

That night I discover that the top bunk is adventure, not comfort. You can't just "hit the hay." Getting up there requires a few spelunking moves, as the ceiling, bed, and walls create a snug shelf. Once under the covers, the safety belt that hooks from bed to ceiling feels superfluous. Despite a loud jolt or two, sleep comes quickly with the help of the train's gentle rocking and distant whistle.

When I wake up, I savor my curiosity for a few minutes before wiggling down off the bunk. Unexpected delays caused by freight trains are almost a given, meaning that we could be anywhere. I see gray dawn over water and guess we are on the Gulf Coast.

The shower and the bathroom compartments have the same Lilliputian charm as our room. But, surprisingly, the train does not feel cramped like an airplane because of the freedom to climb staircases, traverse corridors, and open doors to other cars. We have a whole "house" to explore, and next stop is the dining car for breakfast.

"Like a turkey running through the corn, gobble, gobble, gobble," says Guy as we head off.

"I'm going to eat my way to L.A.," says Percy Newbery, a retiree from Spofford, N.H. When we see the menu, we understand why. Will it be eggs, pancakes, or French toast? Later in the day, we are tempted by regional fare like Cajun chicken, grilled catfish, ribs, sandwiches, as well as soups and salad.

A steward matches up strangers to fill the four-person booths, providing a welcome excuse to socialize and shed any unhealthy obsessions with privacy.

Attention to detail is impressive. White tablecloths, silverware, and fresh flowers welcome diners to table three times a day. And before long, our servers Dee Stollar and Pattie Golyer remember our names and whether we prefer iced tea or milk.

The price of meals is included for passengers with sleeper tickets. Coach passengers have to pay, and since prices are high, few opt to eat in the dining car except for breakfast. The price difference between coach and sleeper tickets is considerable. On our trip, the one-way fare was $169 each. Our standard sleeper cabin for two cost an extra $507.

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