Expect grills to grow under the summer glow

Like many suburban lots, Mike Alterman's backyard will be obscured this summer by plumes of savory smoke. Out on the patio by the pool, Mr. Alterman will gleefully cast porterhouse and salmon steaks onto a hot grill and tend them to perfection.

But he will be working on a much grander scale than his neighbors do.

Mr. Alterman's tool of choice represents a new category of grills Â- what might be called the bigfoot of backyard cooking. Eight feet long, 4 feet wide, and 3 feet high, Alterman's "barbecue island" includes stainless steel doors, a porcelain-tile countertop, a sink, cabinets, and room for a refrigerator.

"There's more surface area to put plates, there's room for other appliances," says Alterman, a resident of North Easton, Mass., who built the unit himself last spring. "You're not limited by the little size of a normal barbecue."

Alterman's backyard novelty is no island unto itself. Each year, Americans devote more time to grilling outdoors. Last year, 85 percent of American families owned grills. They are entertaining at home more and looking for casual, low-cost eating options.

Families that invested considerably in their homes the past decade Â- building patios and putting in pools Â- are now extending their kitchens and dining rooms to the backyard. One outgrowth: the grill island, also known as an outdoor kitchen. Made of brick, granite, stone, or marble, the islands contain openings into which owners can fit both built-in and stand-alone grills. Most also include cabinets, countertop space, warming bins, and eating space for a few people.

Some models incorporate appliances. Among them: broilers, deep friers, dishwashers, icemakers, ovens, refrigerators, rotisseries, and trash compactors.

The challenge for grillmakers, experts say, is making these premium grills affordable for the average family. "[Manufacturers] are beginning to take the intimidation out of the outdoor kitchen experience by bringing the price down," says Donna Myers, spokesperson of the Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association in Arlington, Va.

Grill islands were conceived as a fictional toy for America's well-heeled. According to Ms. Myers, grillmaker Ducane built the first model in 1982 for the TV drama "Dallas." The producers of the program asked for a grill worthy of protagonist J.R. Ewing's ostentation. The finished product, called the "Southfork" after the Ewing ranch, was eight feet long, with cranberry-red cabinets, a salad bar, and a wet bar.

Today, grill islands are still primarily marketed to the well-off. PES, a barbecue-island distributor in Los Angeles, prices its high-end models between $4,000 and $15,000. But with heightened consumer interest, they expect prices to fall over the next few years. "Our customer base is growing 20 percent a year," says Ryan Hovey, PES sales manager. "These are just in their infancy in retail right now."

The grills are also catching on outside the havens of year-round grilling. Two years ago, they were primarily found in California, Texas, and Florida. Now, sales are sprouting across the US. "Our biggest growth market is the Northeast," says Mr. Hovey.

A shift in consumer preferences, experts say, prompted the onset of the outdoor kitchen. In 1989, 65 percent of American grill owners used charcoal-burning models. Now it's 48 percent.

Inexpensive charcoal grills are still available. The classic 18-1/2 inch Weber grill retails for $130. Yet even Weber appears to have observed consumers' hungering for more space. Its Kettle Work Table ($35) and Condiment Holder ($14) clip onto the grill's side, making room for extra food and tools.

Gas-heated grills overtook charcoal models in 1997 as Americans' preferred barbecue method. Gas grills are easier to start, heat up faster, and burn more cleanly, experts say.

They are also bigger every year. Most models are attached to carts. Some include cabinet space below the grill, and shelves, side burners, and warming racks above. Sunbeam sells basic gas-heated grills for about $200. Mid-range grills from Kenmore, priced at about $400, usually include a stainless steel or porcelain exterior and features such as extra cooking pans, griddles, and roasting racks.

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