Unseasonably fun

Kris works for a year-round camp in Utah and sleeps outdoors every other night, so she's full of winter-camping advice. We were employing two prime bits: Spicy food makes you feel warmer, and a hot water bottle in your sleeping bag will stay warm until morning, even if the outdoor temperature drops below freezing.

It did. Our breath condensed on the tent's rain fly, froze, and snowed back down on us in the morning. So, it wasn't the Hilton. But the next day dawned bright, and we started on the Tonto trail, which would carry us along the edge of several ravines. By mid-morning, we had traded our hats and scarves for tank tops and shades. A jogger in abbreviated attire passed by, cultivating a sunburn.

By noon, we'd met up with the South Kaibab trail. Compared to the quiet of our first two hikes, this was a busy trail: Several hiking parties passed us on their way to the bottom of the canyon. We had only two days, and we'd decided to make a trail loop through the canyon, rather than running down to the river and back.

So at the South Kaibab trail we turned upward, and started to climb out.

Pretty soon, we overtook another pair of hikers: a Polish father and daughter. We exchanged greetings and passed them; then, at our next snack break, they passed us. We spent the rest of the afternoon leapfrogging up the trail, making tentative conversation, and offering each other fruit.

Though many visitors to the canyon in winter are seeking solitude, folks on the trails this time of year form a loose community. A person has to be a little crazy to sleep outdoors in weather cold enough to freeze standing water. Often another such crazy person proves a kindred soul under all that Polarfleece.

After the father and daughter passed us for the last time, the final miles seemed to drag. We sang to pass the time: Kris, in camp-counselor mode, chose a cheery song about proving something to herself. I chose an old gospel song about lying down to die.

But we did reach the canyon rim in the end, just before dusk. We had planned to camp that night, too – but once we got on the road toward town, showers, and warm beds, there was no turning back.

In addition to a tent, sleeping bag, long underwear, and other standard gear and supplies, consider adding these items to your pack for a winter hiking and camping expedition.

Single-burner stove ($25 to $150) and fuel canister ($3 to $6). Many state and national parks in desert areas don't allow campfires in the winter because of the high danger of forest fires.

Basic crampons ($10 to $35). These are simple metal grips that cinch to the bottom of a hiking boot with a single strap. Don't risk

an icy trail without a pair, particularly if you're carrying a heavy pack.

Aluminum fuel bottle ($10). Fill it with water and bring it to a boil on your stove or fire. Then put the bottle in a wool sock (so it won't melt your sleeping bag) and take it to bed with you to keep you warm.

Old leather gardening gloves. Handy as potholders and for tending a fire.

Head lamp ($10 to $80). Leaves your hands free to wrestle with icy tent zippers, sticky pocket knives, and more.

Comfortable nylon or fleece hat ($10 to $30). Sleep in it and retain that precious body heat.

Neck gaiter ($10). Slip it over your head and it'll prove the warmest $10 you've ever spent. It's less bulky and stays put better than a scarf.

Fleece sleeping bag liner ($20 to $60). Raises the temperature-rating on a sleeping bag by about 15 degrees F.

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