The many faces of St. John

But our pluck and mud-covered jeep earned us a coveted compliment by week's end: Tourists were asking us for directions.

Beyond negotiating bends in the road, our greatest mental challenge those first few days was to stop feeling guilty for spending the entire day wallowing in the surf.

I suppose I should mention that we arrived on the island just in time to participate in the annual "Eight Tough Miles," a road race that stretches from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay, winding upward 5-1/2 miles and then plunging down again 2-1/2 miles.

It was the social event of the weekend with everyone from 9-year-olds to barefoot and saronged runners turning out to participate.

In the days following the race, we recovered by visiting four different beaches a day.

A wide variety of tropical fish and the occasional shy stingray kept us belly-down in snorkel gear for hours on end. The variations of coral that washed up from the sea brought continuous moments of simple wonder.

If bathrooms, showers, a snack bar, a gift shop, and the attention of a lifeguard are necessities, spend every day at Trunk Bay, arguably one of the most scenic beaches on the nine-mile-longisland.

Be forewarned, however, that this is the most common destination of day-trippers from neighboring islands and cruise ships. It gets crowded quickly, and the lazy fish may nibble on your fingers, expecting to be fed.

When lounging on the beach became tiresome, we headed for the trails. Ram Head trail leads out beyond Salt Pond Bay Beach to the southernmost point of St. John.

The hot, dusty hike - among cactuses and a bleating goat or two - took about 45 minutes one way. But the view at the end - where the orange and brown cliffs seem to tumble into the swirling sea below - was breathtaking.

When we grew weary of hiking, we set sail. For about $50 a person, we took a guided half-day sail on one of the many sailboats moored in Cruz Bay and Coral Bay (full-day sails are also offered). If you're pinching pennies, be aware that the captain and crew generally expect a tip.

All food is expensive on the island. Cruz Bay offers a number of Caribbean-themed restaurants, but an average dinner for two can cost about $50.

Local flavor is easy to find at Skinny Legs in Coral Bay, an open-air restaurant/bar that boasts of being a "pretty OK place with same-day service."

Located nearby is another open-air restaurant, Shipwrecked. A number of wild kitties live in the wooded lot next door and sometimes surprise diners. When I inquired about the furry bandits at my bare ankles, the hostess begged me to take one home.

Vie's Snacks and Drinks - "two hills over" from Hurricane Hole - serves up some delicious barbecued chicken and black beans and rice from a shack alongside the road.

Of course, the best ending to a Caribbean vacation is reliving your warm memories later, as whena co-worker breezily stopped by my desk the other day, looking fresh, rested, and full of stories about a trip to the Virgin Islands.

"Ah," I said as I listened carefully, "St. John!"

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