Oysters in the spotlight

Fold a damp towel several times and place it on a firm, steady surface. Oyster shells have a deeper cup side and a flat side. Place the oyster cupped-side down on the damp towel for support. Hold the oyster with a gloved right hand, and using an oyster knife or "church key" bottle opener, insert the pointed implement deeply into the hinge of the oyster.

Twist and slowly rock the opener back and forth to pry open the bivalve. When open, use a small sharp knife to cut any muscle from the top shell and then from under the bottom half; flip the oyster meat over in the bottom (cupped) shell for a neat appearance, being careful not to spill the "liquor" - the term for the juice of the oyster.

Oysters on the half shell should be served on a bed of crushed ice, with lemon wedges and, if you desire, a sauce of you choice. Also keep a pepper mill handy.

As an appetizer, plan on six oysters on the half shell per person.

The Grand Central Oyster Bar has been renovated over the years, but their oyster-stew recipe has remained basically the same.

Chefs at the Oyster Bar advise that "If you're adventurous, the stew may be made over direct heat, but it's a tricky process."

The following recipe serves one, but can be multiplied. Although freshly shucked oysters are always best, I often make oyster stew with 8-ounce refrigerated containers of oysters kept on ice at the supermarket fish counter. (An 8-ounce container is enough for two servings of stew.)

8 freshly opened oysters

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1/4 cup oyster juice (in shell)

Dash of celery salt

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 cup half-and-half

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Place all ingredients except half-and-half, paprika, and 1 tablespoon of the butter in the top part of a double boiler over boiling water. Don't let the top of the pan touch the water.

Whisk or stir briskly and constantly for about 1 minute, just until oysters begin to curl.

Add half-and-half and continue stirring briskly, just to a boil.

Ladle stew into bowls. Serve piping hot topped with the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and sprinkled with paprika.

For years, this classic oyster stew from Lyon, France, has been a popular selection on the menu of legendary chef Paul Bocuse.

4 tablespoons butter

3 leeks washed, trimmed of green leaves, and coarsely chopped

3 to 4 russet potatoes (1-1/4 pounds), peeled and cut into cubes

6 cups water

Salt and pepper

1/4 cup vegetable oil

4 slices firm, white bread, cut into small cubes

1 cup heavy cream

1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 quart shucked oysters

1/4 to 1/3 cup Gruyére cheese, grated

1/2 cup parsley, chopped

Paprika

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy saucepan. Add leeks and cook over medium heat, stirring until soft - about 5 to 7 minutes. Add potatoes, water, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, then simmer about 20 minutes until potatoes are cooked; set aside to cool slightly.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the oil in a large, heavy frying pan. Add bread cubes and brown them over low to medium heat, watching them carefully. Set aside.

Purée leek and potato mixture in a food processor or blender until smooth. (You may have to do this in two or more batches.)

Pour puréed mixture into a deep saucepan. Add cream and nutmeg and bring to a boil. Add oysters and their "liquor" (juice in the shell) and cook just until oysters curl and begin to rise to the surface. Do not overcook.

Spoon chowder into soup bowls; top each with a few croutons and sprinkle with a bit of Gruyére, parsley, and paprika. Serve with any additional croutons, cheese, and parsley on the side.

Serves 6.

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