Saffron will cost you, but a pinch goes far

If the Brothers Grimm, those German tellers of tales and collectors of folklore, had been raised on bouillabaisse rather then bratwurst, they may have seen things a little differently. They might have had the diminutive rascal Rumpelstiltskin, for instance, spin gossamer threads of orange saffron rather than strands of gold to win the miller's daughter's first-born son.

And, monetarily, it wouldn't have been much of a stretch. Saffron is just as rare and, by weight, the most expensive of all spices.

Penzeys Spices of Brookfield, Wis., a preeminent purveyor of gourmet herbs and spices, offers 1/4-ounce packages of saffron from $42 to $58, depending on grade. That's not too surprising when you consider its source.

It is hand-plucked from a small, unassuming autumn-blooming flower native to Asia Minor, the Crocus sativus. And this demure, purple blossom is as miserly as King Midas. Each little flower, when open, reveals but three inch-long, thread-like stigmas. These "threads," which are not much longer than one of Charo's or Tammy Faye Bakker's eyelashes, are the much-valued saffron threads.

Fortunately, a small amount of saffron goes a long way. A pinch added to chicken stock, creamed soups, or sauces can raise the humblest of dishes to gourmet status.

Given its price, it's not surprising that saffron is usually sold in quantities of 1/4 grams, or less. A single gram of saffron can season about 40 servings of Saffron Rice.

After it is painstakingly harvested by scores of migrant workers, it is spread out to air dry in the sun for weeks before being packaged for sale.

We in the West are most familiar with saffron as a seasoning to an array of classic Mediterranean dishes such as Risotto alla Milanese, the bouillabaisse of Marseilles, or Spanish garlic soup, but over the centuries, it has also migrated north to Scandinavia as a flavoring for savory saffron buns. Saffron also appears as a prized addition to our gourmet pantry. And it hasn't been used only as a seasoning. In the past, Persians used the orange-red stigmas as a valued dye in their precious hand-woven carpets.

Although saffron may never take the place of French's yellow mustard on your kitchen shelf, a small vial of the exotic spice can bring a rare taste and sunny yellow color to even the simplest soup, white sauce, and even mayonnaise. Use it sparingly to bring a special flavor, aroma, and color to your table.

Saffron is often sold in glass vials and is available in many large supermarkets, specialty food shops, and gourmet stores. Because of its high price, it is sometimes kept behind the counter. If you don't find it on the shelves, ask the store manager.

When purchasing saffron, buy it in thread form, not powdered. Powdered saffron is sometimes cut with other, cheaper ingredients like safflower, marigold, or turmeric, which impart color, but none of the pungent aroma and flavor. Beware of "Mexican saffron," as this is usually a false saffron and bears little resemblance to the real thing.

Most saffron in Western markets comes from the Novelda and Valencia areas of Spain. An acre of land devoted to saffron produces between 5 to 7 pounds of the spice. It takes approximately 75,000 stigmas or filaments to produce a pound of saffron.

Saffron should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place.

1 3- to 3-1/2-pound chicken, quartered

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon herbs de Provence

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