In a village far, far, away, 'Star Wars' stirs debate

Those involved in the trade in Matmata stress that the Berber cave homes pockmarking the hilly town drew visitors long before being immortalized on film. "When I saw 'Star Wars,' I thought, 'It's extraordinary, it's beautiful, I'm on the moon.' But it was difficult for me to recognize my own hometown," says Nejia Bouabidi, head of the Matmata tourist office. She concedes, however, that most tourists who drop by do ask about the film.

Formerly an agrarian community, Matmata today is heavily dependent on tourism. Residents work as guides, in hotels and restaurants, as souvenir vendors and camel renters. Ms. Bouabidi says at least 1,000 tourists visit every day, spending an average of 70 dinars ($48), in a place where she estimates the average monthly income is 200 dinars ($137).

"This village doesn't have any other work. Without tourism, we couldn't continue," declares Maher Ghrairi, a plump teen decked out in a Mets cap and Harley Davidson T-shirt. "All villagers love 'Star Wars,'" he says, although he hasn't seen it.

Mr. Ghrairi spends most of his time looking for tourists to "invite" to see his family's subterranean dwelling next door - for a few dinars. His father switched from harvesting olives and grain to selling souvenirs 15 years ago. Two of his three older brothers are tour guides. Ghrairi dreams of working in a big hotel.

Not everyone is happy about tourism in Matmata, however.

"The young people, they aren't looking for religion or tradition, they're looking for easy money," says Karaa Mostari. "The older generation is complaining, while the young say they need to make a living." Mr. Mostari shakes his head over the "invasion" of foreign culture, while sitting by the pool of the three-star hotel he manages.

But for the younger generation, that foreign influence has opened up undeniable opportunities. Compared with other villages in the area, children here stay in school longer, and many live in newly built houses above ground.

Bouabidi, the Matmata tour-office director, grew up in a traditional cave dwelling. Women rarely left home in those days, never worked outside it, and never, ever, wore pants or make-up. "I want to travel. And I like putting on make-up, dressing the way I want," says Bouabidi, clad in slacks and a white blouse.

Some travelers say Matmata should do more to play up its "Star Wars" connection. "They'd make so much more money if they publicized it more. If this place were New York, it would be jammed 24/7, and the queue would be a mile long," declares John Quinn, an engineer and "Star Wars" fan who slipped away from a Tunisian tour package and stumbled upon Matmata by chance. "I know when I go home, the first thing I'm going to say is, I was in the 'Star Wars' set."

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