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Okinawans clamor for quiet

Despite economic ploys from Tokyo, residents here are tired of being host to the most US troops.

By Ilene R. PrusherStaff writer of The Christian Science Monitor / July 21, 2000


When Masuro Chibana, a high school science teacher, is in the middle of making a point, he sometimes has to stop class because he can't speak over the roar of planes taking off next door.

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Same goes for the top floor of his house, where quiet conversations are often overpowered by the nearby Kadena Air Base, the largest in Asia and home to many of the 28,000 US troops stationed here - the bulk of the 48,000 parked at bases around Japan.

Yesterday, Mr. Chibana and some 27,000 other protesters held hands around the Kadena base to form a "human chain," demanding that the US withdraw the powerful military presence it has had here since the end of World War II.

It is not just the headline-grabbers that incense local residents - earlier this month an intoxicated 19-year-old Marine allegedly molested a 14-year-old girl as she slept. Another serviceman confessed to a hit-and-run accident that wounded a pedestrian. It is the little things that make them want the US troops out - like the constant clatter of airplanes and helicopters.

"In this heat, we have enough trouble getting to sleep, the noise is just one more thing to wake you up," says Chinbana, wearing a towel over his head to block out the hot sun. "Our children are so used to this racket that when it's silent they feel uncomfortable."

Both the weather and the political climate may feel less than comfortable for Prime Minister Yoshiro Mori and President Clinton, who was due in Okinawa early this morning for the G-8 summit that begins here today. Ironically, Mr. Mori's predecessor, the late Keizo Obuchi, chose Okinawa in an attempt to quiet complaints in this southern and westernmost tip of Japan, where citizens have long grumbled about bearing the brunt of the US-Japan Security Treaty that has been in place for the past 40 years.

Frustrations are directed in part at the US, but also at the mainland Japanese. From the naicha - Okinawan for outsiders - people here have felt a sense of arrogance toward their unique culture and a history that once placed them under China's helm. Unwilling hosts to the last, brutal battle of World War II, during which a third of Okinawans lost their lives - some of them forced to commit suicide by losing Japanese commanders - many Okinawans view the bases as evidence that they've been pawns to be sacrificed.

As the complaints have grown louder, Tokyo has pledged to give more money to Okinawa, Japan's poorest prefecture. Along with the summit came 17 billion yen ($157 million) for new roads and a sparkling new convention center.

The choice of summit site - Nago, in less developed northern Okinawa - seemed particularly aimed at cajoling local leaders to allow the island's most controversial US air base, Futenma, to be moved there.

Instead, the summit locale is drawing the world's attention to the fact that many here don't think that thousands of young US soldiers make good neighbors. The local grievance list is long, including environmental pollution, a high crime rate, and a longing for the return of lush hilltops and beachfront property that are taken up by the bases, which cover 10 percent of the Okinawan land.